The L.L. Bean Before “Preppy”

"Preppy” was mainstreamed in the early 1980s.  It became self-aware which, as with a precocious five- year-old who one day realizes they can manipulate adults with their smile, or Skynet, didn’t bode well.  

But there was a time before “Preppy,” the chronicling of which should not be left to the sharp elbowed (with ChatGPT and Google Image search).

For example, L.L. Bean.

My parents had shopped at L.L. Bean before I was born.  My father would hop into his Black 1952 MG TD with its red leather seats, and along with his father, head up to the Maine coast in pursuit of their duck shooting and grouse shooting kit, including from Beans.  Our house was littered with what are now called Bean Boots.  We called them pacs. 

As long as I can remember, I have been joining on pilgrimages to Beans.  

Bean Boots by L.L.Bean

Muffy Aldrich wearing Bean Boots.

Bean Boots are the classic Americana footwear made in Maine by L.L. Bean, and originally called the Maine Hunting Shoe.  As L.L. Bean says as often as they can, they were developed by Leon L. Bean (with whom, funnily,  my husband shares seven sets of great grand-parents) back in 1912.   Originally designed for hunters traversing marshy terrains, they now are sold as everything from snow boots to fashion accessories.  

I grew up wearing Bean Boots.  As soon as I could fit into my mother’s, I pilfered them.  In our house they were always called pacs (never duck boots), which my parents bought back in the early 1950s.  (See her wearing them grouse shooting in Maine in the second to last photo.)

Now hugely popular, there are endless permutations combining styles and colors produced.  You see them everywhere, in the field, across suburban downtowns, and all over the streets of Boston and New York.

Poll: Is L.L. Bean on the right track?

In 2001, the owners of L.L. Bean made Christopher McCormick the CEO of L.L. Bean when Leon Gorman stepped down from his daily duties. This post-Gorman era brought a lot of changes to L.L. Bean, including the launching of the L.L. Bean Signature line.

Now, after a decade of McCormick control, here is a question.

* Is L.L. Bean on the right track?

---

** Update** The poll is closed.  Of 1424 readers who voted, 1355 (95%) believed L.L. Bean is currently on the wrong track.

---

** Update: For more information, read this article about the team behind L.L. Bean's Signature. **

Reader Comment: On L.L.Bean 'Signature' Chamois

On L.L. Bean  'Signature' Chamois:

Good morning Muffy,

I love the addition of videos to your blog!

I decided to take a chance and ordered a chamois shirt from Bean to wear outside (untucked) while raking and doing other outside fall chores. I wanted solid black (the NYer in me) and because I’m tall I ordered men’s since Bean doesn’t offer much in the way of tall women’s sizing. I’d love to steal my husband’s 1980s L.L.Bean chamois but it’s his yard work shirt, too. 

I’m sad to report that once again L.L.Bean favors gimmickry over quality.

L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Bags - The Complete Guide (2024 Edition)

Photos by Salt Water New England

I have received quite a few questions about L.L. Bean Boat and Tote bags.  Here are the top ten, and my answers (and some answers from the community).  

• Boat and Tote, Zip-Top <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/37037>

• Boat and Tote, Open-Top <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/33381>

1. What is an L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Bag?

A Reader Question: Should L.L. Bean get a government bail-out?

L.L.Bean CEO Stephen Smith says that middle market retail "needs attention in the next stimulus package for sure.”  <https://www.cnbc.com/2020/03/30/ll-bean-ceo-congress-must-do-more-to-address-serious-retail-crisis.html>

 A reader question:

The news just keeps getting more interesting.  I saw this today and thought of SWNE.  What do you think about L.L. Bean getting a government bail-out?  Freeport is a ghost town, and I read on your blog that they had been investing in new stores <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1000001703>, and that must leave them even more vulnerable.  Still, in every interview, L.L Bean seems to play the victim.  I wonder what Linda Bean would think about corporate socialism.  Is a decision one way or the other influenced at all by the fact that L. L. Bean hardly employees any U.S. based manufacturers anymore?   I am curious what your readers think.  Thank you!

Polo Shirts

Photos by Salt Water New England

Questions about polo shirts typically revolve around:

1. Who makes and sells good polo shirts?

2. How do you select and wear polo shirts?

3. How do you take care of polo shirts?

4. What are opinions on specific polo shirt companies?

The Best Ever L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Colors

This Year's Lawn Green is their Best Green Ever.  Photos by Salt Water New England.

What have been the best L.L. Bean Boat and Tote colors over the years?

• The best blue continues to be their navy, which they call Blue.

• The best green had been 2010's Glen Green, but in 2022  they came out with something better, the smashing Lawn Green. 
  
  Thankfully L.L. Bean uses Natural canvas for their zip-tops on all seasonal color bags, including this one.  However, their default monogramming thread color is a clashing Dark Green (what they used to call Hunter Green), so specify a better color such as Navy (shown).    

• A third best color is Natural.

• Finally, I would add to the list their Pink Berry, last seen in 2011.  

Links:

• Boat and Tote, Zip-Top <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/37037>

• Boat and Tote, Open-Top <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/33381>

As in the past, there is a reasonable chance I will sell out the Lawn Green bags earlier than normal by mentioning them here, so if you like them, don't delay.  (I ordered all of mine before posting this, naturally.)

The Best L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Bag Colors

L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Monogramming - Warehouse Machines vs. Flagship Store Machines

Photos by Salt Water New England

I had published on SWNE a "Complete Guide" to L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Bags  <link>.  Here is one point that I should add. 

I have been ordering L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Bags for as long as I can remember, and I most always have them monogrammed – which is done at their warehouse – and then shipped out to me.  What I recently learned from an employee there is that the flagship store in Freeport has monogramming machines that are superior to the ones at their warehouse.  

I tested this for myself.

I gathered up all of my new totes that had not been monogrammed (mostly because when I ordered them they were shipped directly from other Bean stores and thus could not be monogrammed).  

I had them done in two batches, some last month (which I left at the store and had them ship to me when finished) and, based on the success of that, more today.

The Lifecycle of Preppy Companies

Chart Designed by Salt Water New England

Boat and Tote Zip Pouch, Hold the Beans

Photos by Salt Water New England

I use one or more of the L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Zip Pouches as cosmetic bags/general hold-all bags inside my summer Boat and Totes that I use as pocketbooks.  It is sturdy, reasonably priced, and is available (occasionally) in some tasteful colors.   They are made in Maine of the same 24 oz canvas as their totes.  And it takes the Dark Pink monogram very nicely indeed.

• Boat and Tote Zip Pouch <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/123918>

If you find the Bean label and/or the brownish tan Bean Boot laces that are used for the pulls a bit regrettable, you can quickly remove them.  Here is how I do it.  

And as an aside, for whatever reason,  Beans uses a much higher quality YKK zipper for their Canvas Pouches than they do for the zippers on their tote bags.

Cut off the tag.  Obviously.

How Do Devold of Norway's Classic Birdseye Fisherman Sweaters Compare to L. L. Bean’s?

Photo by Salt Water New England

A thick and hearty Devold Nordsjø classic birdseye sweater in Off White, from Arthur Beale.  Pure Norwegian Wool.

• Devold Nordsjø Sweaters  <https://arthurbeale.co.uk/products/devold-nordsjo-sweater>

 A Reader Question:

Dear Muffy, 

I was curious if your readers had any experience with Devold Sweaters?  One would think that L.L. Bean had invented the Norwegian Birdseye Sweater, but there appears to be several others that had come before them.  I have been hearing a lot about Devold, based in Norway, and specifically that the quality is much higher.  I have been less than thrilled with the Bean version.  Any thoughts?

 

Thoughts on L.L. Bean's New (Old) Trail Model Vest

 

Hi Muffy,

I noticed that LL Bean is re-releasing a few staples that were retired. This includes the green down vest from the Official Preppy Handbook. I’d love your thoughts on this as a wardrobe staple. I’ve recently stuck to Barbour or Schoffel, but a bit of nostalgia is nagging me to grab one of these. 

Cheers!

 

• Adults' Bean's Trail Model Down Vest '82 <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/127560>

Turtlenecks

Past Season L.L. Bean Turtleneck - Photos by Salt Water New England

A reader question:

Help! Please can you or your readers tell me where I can find good turtle necks that are like the ones you wear that don't stretch? Many thanks.

Turtlenecks shown:

• Women's L.L.Bean Interlock Turtleneck, Long-Sleeve Stripe in Cream/Classic Navy <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/121875>

•  Women's L.L.Bean Interlock Turtleneck, Long-Sleeve in White <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/22350>

Polo Shirt Recommendations

 A reader question:

Dear Muffy,

I hope this message finds you well. I want to share my appreciation for the LL Bean polo shirts, particularly their stand-up collars that provide excellent protection from the sun on the boat and keep me cozy when stepping out for firewood.

As someone who has cherished LL Bean polo shirts for many years, I've noticed a slight change in the navy color recently, which has prompted me to explore other options. Could you kindly recommend other manufacturers whose polo shirt collars stand up and offer similar durability and quality to LL Bean?

Thank you very much in advance for your assistance with this matter. Your insights would be greatly appreciated.

Warm regards

Khakis

Photos by Salt Water New England

Do You Own More Flannel Shirts or Tattersalls?

Photos by/of Muffy Aldrich

When it is a little warm, I think of sailing, tennis, and working in the garden.  When it is a lot warm (read that, too bloody hot), I think of brushed cotton tattersalls, Scottish knitwear, and Barbours.

As well, when I pick up an L.L. Bean catalog this time of year – in the same way I look for the yellowing of leaves – I instinctively look for their flannel shirts, always curious what tartans they are offering this season, though I never buy them anymore.  It's tattersalls, always tattersalls.

So, my question in this heat wave is simple.  Do you own more flannel shirts or tattersalls?

Shown:

• James Bond Tattersall Brushed Cotton Flannel from Mercer & Sons, Made in the USA <https://mercerandsons.com/products/james-bond-tattersall-brushed-cotton-flannel>

• Cordings Men's British Country Tattersall Shirts <https://www.cordings.co.uk/us/menswear/shirts/tattersall-flannel>

• L.L. Bean Women's Scotch Plaid Flannel Shirt, Relaxed <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/70362>

• L.L. Bean Men's Scotch Plaid Flannel Shirt, Traditional Fit <https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/42272>

 

Review: Noah X Barbour

Photos by Salt Water New England

What could be better that a slightly oversized Barbour Beaufort in a vibrant pink wool?  Enter Noah X Barbour.  

• Noah x Barbour <https://noahny.com/blogs/news/noah-x-barbour-2>

It is the result of a highly anticipated collaboration between Barbour and Noah, released to the public on Thursday which sold out in minutes.  Here is a review of one of the pieces in that collaboration that Noah sent to me.

Question: To Which Clothing Brands and Stores are You Loyal?

One measurement for the health of companies is their brand loyalty, that ineffable combination of consumer habit, trust, even enthusiasm and self-identity.  Companies that value brand loyalty re-invest in it through improving quality, as well as trying to better understand their customers' needs and wants, and then providing products that better meet these needs.  Their new products cause excitement.

However brand loyalty has frayed.  This may be in part to companies losing contact with their customers, as when box stores and now online stores know more about buyers than the vendors themselves.  But also many companies have used brand loyalty against their customers.  Apple continues to raise prices on new iPhones, just as Gillette has done for decades on razor blades.  Some clothing companies that grew based on their (loudly touted) "Made in America" production have shifted to low-cost/offshore mega-factories, hoping no one noticed, or in other ways undermined their own production standards.  Globalization has created markets, less for fabulous items and more for vast quantities of good enough products ruthlessly marketed, easily bought, cost effective, and quickly shipped.   And companies with vast PR budgets have been able to simulate the social media enthusiasm that was once the reward of actual great products.   And, some past great brands have simply petered out, often the cumulative effect of dozens of bad decisions.

However, their is still the opportunity for great companies to flourish.  Given that, a question for the community:

To which clothing brands and stores are you loyal?

Some brands mentioned (with links):

• Mercer Shirts (OCBDs)
• Porthault (handkerchiefs, which sounds ridiculously indulgent, but it’s not)
• Tory's Jewelry
• Patsy Kane
• Quoddy (casual footwear)
• Pringle cardigans
• Cordings (Outerwear, Tweed and suits, Casual trousers, Polo shirts, Socks, headwear )
• Bates and James Lock (headwear)
• Oliver Brown (Casual trousers)
• Darn Tough socks
• Sunspel (Polo shirts - The quality and fit is much better than PRL or Gant!)
• Eric Javits (winter berets and buckets, summer sun hats)
• Kamakura Shirts. (OCBDs)
• Longchamp (le pliage bags for almost anywhere)
• Bills Khakis (chinos and polos)
• Uniqlo Cashmere (Heattech and AIRism undergarments)
• Wolford (hoisery)
• Tricker's (footwear)
• Vilebrequin Moorea Swim Trunks
• Vermont Originals Earflap Wool Caps
• Lawrence & Foster (caps)
• Olney (cotton hats - It's possible to buy Olney much cheaper (50% or more) from other stores.)
• Eileen Fisher (ballet-ballet-length dresses for anywhere)
• Pantherella (socks)
• John Smedley (Knitwear) 
• Breitling (watches)
• Alico hiking boots 
• Tilley hats
• Sole orthotic inserts
• Corgi (socks)
• E.Marinella (ties)
• Charles Tyrwhitt
• Great and British Knitwear
• Meindl hiking boots
• Rancourt
• Gill
• Taylor's of Old Bond Street (Shaving and grooming)
• Geo. Trumper (Shaving and grooming)
• DR Harris (Shaving and grooming)
• Fairway & Greene
• Peter Millar
• Tervis Tumblers (so long as they replace them when damaged)
• Mizuno  (Forged irons for golf)
• Turnbull & Asser (Shirts, ties and underwear)
• Barbour (Outerwear)
• Skida Hats
• Oak Street Bootmakers
• Title Nine (athletic apparel and bras - TMI)
• Smartwool Socks
• Subaru Cars
• Flint and Tinder
• Norlender sweaters
• Orvis (winter t-neck tops, cotton-gauze summer scarfs, Long Sleeve casual shirts, khakis)
• Alden shoes (Cordovans, In the future I want to purchase in person), (Specifically, The Shoemart in Norwalk, CT)
• Ferragamo (court shoes)
• Allen Edmunds (Spectators)
• Abeo Bio 
• Omega watches
• Crockett & Jones (footwear)
• Arcopedico 
• Pilot Varsity fountain pens
• Blundstone Boots
• Everlane 
• Boden (their children’s line must be woven with Teflon, my son couldn’t wear the stuff out and most is now on its third and fourth child.)
• Xtratuf  (outfitted my family on a lark after seeing what seemed like every dock and boat worker in Alaska wearing the boots. The first pair of boots my 13 yo actually wants to wear. )
• Stormy Kromer
• Longchamp Totes
• Sebago 
• Patagonia (outerwear)
• Dansko Clogs
• Boden Dresses
• Brooks Running
• Ben Silver
• Sperry's for deck shoes (the quality isn't there but I put mine through a lot and get new ones each year)
• Murray's for ACK Reds (even if the quality isn't what it once was, it’s still small enough for me to support them and better than the big brand imitators)
• Diamond Gusset jeans
• New Balance
• Bass
• Vineyard Vines
• Ralph Lauren
• Brooks Brothers (Made in America ties and suits, sweaters, coats, and Zac Posen designed dresses for events)
• Lacoste  (polo shirts)
• Carhartt 
• L.L. Bean (Bean boots, OCBD, occasionally khakis, polos, Gum Shoes, short sleeve casual shirts, tote bags, winter coats)
• Kmart Basic Editions Men's Button-Front Oxford Shirt
• J. McLaughlin
• JJill (black, flat-cut “wearever” tops and pull-on slacks, sleepwear)
• Eddie Bauer 
• Filson (home of L.L. Bean Signature alum Alex Carlton)
• J Press (for blazers and hangers, MTM dress shirts, blazers/suits, dress trousers, and sweaters)
• Lands' End (including for swim wear)

Boat Shoes

Photos by Salt Water New England