A reader question:
Muffy, I so enjoyed the July 3rd post on the website re: Three Rules for a Wardrobe Base” . I wondered if I may pose a question for your reader community to add on?
Namely, are there suggestions for finding quality garments of natural fibers, sustainability and ethically made (ideally in the US, Britain or Europe) for sports and activities? As an example, I was a junior equestrian back in the 80s and recall breeches, jackets and shirts being of high quality and made from cottons and wool in America, England, Ireland and Germany. Returning to the sport as an adult has been a rude awakening. Everything is so tight and clingy, even on the slimmest of riders. Almost everything is polyester, nylon or a mix of synthetics carrying the CA required warnings about carcinogens. Anything cotton is “no iron” coated, which I refuse to purchase. Tailored Sportsman breeches are made in America and largely cotton (with stretch fabric woven in), but I am at a loss otherwise. Almost everything else, even “heritage” brands have moved manufacturing to well offshore.
Same for what I see in the world of tennis and golf attire, it’s all so cheap looking anymore.
Any recommendations from the readers would be welcomed and appreciated. I would love to demand the same quality and standards in my athletic wear as I do for my day to day wardrobe. Thanks in advance!
Here's one: https://grasscourt.com
ReplyDeleteI offered the Grass Court Collection as an answer to the question. However, I too think cotton is inferior to the newer performance fabrics -- especially if one is playing in the heat. I agree that Lacoste is a good choice. I would also recommend Wilson, which has dramatically improved the style of its tennis clothing. And if you'd like to be a little cheeky, go with Boast USA.
DeleteI've been involved with horses for about fifty years now and I can honestly say that the fabrics today are superior to those from back when I started. With the exception of wool, of course. More stretch, less bagging and sagging, breathable and easier to take care of. Classic styles seem to have gone out the window in favor of "bling" and personal style, which I think is a shame but it's a bit more fun.
ReplyDeleteI remember way back when the only waterproof sheets and blankets were New Zealand rugs, which were canvas and weighed a ton when wet and took forever to dry. Horse clothing has evolved as much as riders' clothing with lightweight, breathable and waterpoof fabrics; much more comfortable for the horse.
Here’s one for running: https://www.tracksmith.com
ReplyDeleteI like all of my Tracksmith clothing, but I've never noticed a piece made anywhere but Asia. And if you so much as think about tossing one of their wool shirts in the dryer, it'll shrink two sizes in fear.
DeleteThere's a company out of Minneapolis called Borealis that makes t-shirts from New Zealand merino wool, and they're safe for machine washing and drying. Their construction is very good, and their colors are conventional navy, grey, green, etcetera.
Annoyingly, Cording's pique polos are no longer made in England so I recommend Fred Perry's M2, M3 and M12 (a generous regular fit) for golf and tennis.
ReplyDeleteOliver Brown's riding breeches, in moleskin or cavalry twill. are made in the UK. Sizes are limited during the summer sale but they should be restocked later in the year.
Fred Perry is still a fine all around shirt!
ReplyDeleteThere's a reason cotton is rarely used for modern sport and activity clothing. It performs terribly. Cotton is probably the worst fabric for anything other than just potterring about in mild, dry weather. It has no insulation properties, it gets heavy when wet, takes an age to dry when wet and will chill you to the bone if it gets cold while wet. There's even a saying among hillwalkers that "cotton kills". Cotton makes for a truly awful active fabric. The only natural fabric I'd wear for sports and activities is merino wool.
ReplyDeleteI'd suggest you concentrate on the activity and stop worrying about looking good.
I would say, further, that proper performance apparel isn't always incompatible with looking good and traditional. I wear Nike shirts, shorts and shoes for tennis, all in white with small black accents, and I look Wimbledon-appropriate and fit for the stodgiest of racquet clubs. Similarly, there's nothing wrong with a well-fitted collared golf shirt that doesn't leave you sodden at the end of a round. Modern fabrics needn't be the enemy in all occasions.
DeleteI hate how activewear fabrics feel in hot, humid weather - like I'm wearing a plastic bag. I'd rather wear lightweight cotton, but that's just my preference!
DeleteIn response to John E, I would point out that "performance" (i.e. cheap polyester) tennis clothing is a 21st century fad. Laver, Borg and McEnroe all won major titles wearing cotton - as did Hogan, Snead, Palmer, Nicklaus, Watson and Ballesteros on the golf course. Modern professionals get paid millions a year to wear what their sponsors want to sell at enormous margins to gullible wannabes.
DeleteMy cotton Ashworth polos look like new even though they've been washed hundreds of times since I bought them over 30 years ago. At that time Ashworth golf clothing was worn by Fred Couples and Ernie Els when they were winning Major titles. I would touch Nike, and its association with dopers like Lance Armstrong, with the proverbial barge pole.
I don't know for certain, but would guess that Rod Laver wouldn't be playing in cotton garb with a wooden racquet today, lol. Top level performance gear is faarrrr from cheap.
DeleteWhile they work with manufacturers located in multiple places, Sid Mashburn has an old school approach to golf attire--think natural fibers like cotton polos in light but conservative colors, cashmere -neck sweaters and wool trousers--that channels Arnold Palmer. They outfitted pro Keith Mitchell, which generated some buzz you can find online. That said, I echo others in saying, most other strenuous, cold and wet outdoor activity calls for merino wool and synthetics, but NOT cotton, to avoid hypothermia!
ReplyDeleteI second the motion for Grass Court. They're in Philadelphia. or nearby and have been around quietly for years and years. For ladies and gentlemen who want to look like ladies and gentlemen on the court, not Vitas Gerulaitis or the tennis-playing kid in "The Royal Tennenbaums".
ReplyDeleteThey aren't made in the USA, but I do like Renwick's made in Peru, 100% cotton polos. They are a thin, lightweight pima cotton that I find really comfortable in hot weather and are great for golf or tennis.
ReplyDeleteI love Hedge's offerings for women's tennis and golf! Elegant and classic.
ReplyDeleteI have never worn clothing specifically designed for golf to play the game. Cotton khakis and polos from O'Connell's, topped with a Shetland or a Fair Isle if it is cool, works just fine. In the summer I shift to shorts, khakis or reds. FYI the new line from Footjoy includes some very traditional looking shoes.
ReplyDeleteCheck out Pinebury. Merino activewear made in New England.
ReplyDelete“Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes,” said Henry David Thoreau.
ReplyDeleteLacoste Dri Fit Tennis Shirt works for me.
ReplyDeleteCourt sports fans, equestrian enthusiasts and golfers are close to fair game. Natural and sustainable offerings ought to fit the bill. Winter sports are another issue altogether. Are they not ?
ReplyDeleteMy best breeches by far have been by Asmar Equestrian: https://www.asmarequestrian.com/products/classic-asmar-breech?variant=8018632771
ReplyDeleteI have them in white and tan. While they are made in China, they are designed in Canada, and the quality is impressive. My weight fluctuates a lot, and even when I'm on my heavier side, they stretch and hold up. I would not trust my other breeches not to rip at the seams, as the fabric and stitching do not seem as secure as on my Asmar ones. These wash great, and I can often swipe any dirt right off when they are dry. They are more water-resistant than others I've worn, as well. They're comfortable enough to wear while working in the barn all day.
Unfortunately, though, this particular style has been discontinued. I have not tried any of their new styles that are now listed on their site, but they do not look as durable as the previous ones are. The new ones look more like a legging hybrid, which I prefer the brand Free Ride Equestrian for. I have been stalking resale sites like eBay and Poshmark trying to find them in other colors for years!
Linking two preloved pairs I found available in case you're a size 24:
https://www.2ndroundequestrian.com/apparel-store/p/noel-asmar-classic-breech-in-tan-24
https://www.triedequestrian.com/products/asmar-equestrian-denim-breech-in-indigo-cognac-womens-us-24?variant=39817067593816¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDiQlcZwoL9mPnzAVjn7otGIIY_7kPBB8Ho-AnAOCuP3CPMiLM65oyMaAnqgEALw_wcB
Thank you! I do have a lovely cashmere hooded sweater from Asmar, but have not tried their breeches. I appreciate Muffy posting my question all the feedback and responses. I just discovered a company in England called The Hunting Stock Market, which looks very promising. There is another UK made company called Ginger and Jardine that produces bamboo riding shirts, this also looks worth a try.
DeleteI sincerely despise the "performance" polo. It looks, typically, like the wearer is donned with plastic. Natural fibers were with the English as they travelled the globe. A true "performance" fiber, in my book.
ReplyDeleteWhile others have listed some very good shirts, I wanted to mention two more. Made in Poland, Legio Gloria has polos and linen button downs (www.legiogloria.com) and SolApparels has made in USA cotton polos and linen shirts/pants (www.solapparels.com). These are much newer brands but I've tried and can back the quality.
I enjoy the texture of a fine pima broadcloth as much as the next lady or gentleman, but an athlete is best served by a material and design optimized for his/her occupation or hobby. In this regard, polyester and its ilk reign supreme. I sincerely doubt Olympians and other top athletes would wear such (often garish) clothing if there wasn't a sufficiently adequate advantage to be gained in doing so.
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