I had written in a Substack article back in February:
I have been told by one US based merchant that he always visits the European factories in person that supply his business, as it has become common for sweatshops to import their low-wage workers and set up the same low quality shop in a European country so they can say their products are made locally (Italy was an example he used where he claimed it was particularly problematic. Your “Made in Italy” handbags are not necessarily products of the generational, passed down skills, of the Italian natives, known for their precision and skill and passion.)
- 3 Warning Signs for an Online Clothing Vendor, Feb 16, 2025 <https://open.substack.com/pub/muffyaldrich/p/3-warning-signs-for-an-online-clothing>
And I just read this in The Irish Times:
“People think ‘Made in Italy’ means you’re getting a long-lasting craft item,” says Caoimhe Grant, a Dublin-based designer and founder of the handbag line, August Night. “But real artisans can’t produce at the speed luxury brands demand. If it’s mass produced, how luxury is it?”
- We’re familiar with the evils of fast fashion. But is high fashion so much better? The Irish Times. <https://www.irishtimes.com/opinion/2025/07/20/rachel-odwyer-were-familiar-with-the-evils-of-fast-fashion-but-is-high-fashion-so-much-better/>
The Italians have done a great job guaranteeing the quality of their food and wine with the DOC and DOP controls. Perhaps they can protect these industries the same way.
ReplyDeleteIt’s much easier to oversee Tuscan vineyards, Umbrian olive groves, and Dolomiti dairies than it is to keep track of “here today, gone tomorrow” sweatshops in suburban Naples.
DeleteThose sweatshops would never be eligible for the designation. The system would reward the companies that have a history of craftsmanship and fairness and would ignore the others.
DeleteFrom your mouth to God’s ears. Alas an Italian system, especially in the Mezzogiorno, means one thing to the government and something else to others.
Delete“Gomorrah” authored by Roberto Saviano will give you an inside look at what’s often behind the “Made In Italy” label.
ReplyDeleteI heard about this Chinese clandestine scam in Italian fashion a number of years ago, and now advise anyone interested in authentic Italian luxury to go personally to the smaller shops in Naples (and elsewhere), and watch for yourself who exactly is making your shoes and clothing.
DeleteAnd thanks for tip about the Roberto Saviano expose – I’ll be picking up a copy tomorrow. Sounds fascinating.
That is an excellent reading recommendation. Roberto Saviano is a very brave man.
ReplyDeleteGold and silver jewelry. There are many small family businesses where the unique craftsmanship has been passed down through generations of jewelry artisans.
ReplyDeleteMade in Italy in recent years definitely has issues. Now do Ireland, perhaps a bigger offender.
ReplyDeleteIn Italy, this has been the case for decades, with subcontracted sweatshops set up in Italy and staffed by Southern Italians, later Africans, and increasingly Asians. Not all of the luxury brands use these subcontracting firms, but most do. For example, Loro Piano was recently caught doing so.
ReplyDeleteThat said- there is a seemingly intractable challenge in recruiting and training local talent to work as leatherworkers, seamstresses, etc. It is a long apprenticeship with typically lower pay than in the service sector. Young people do not want to those jobs in large enough numbers. All of the European fashion houses are facing major challenges recruiting the next generation of craftsmen. Hermes, Brioni, and Cucinelli can afford to set up academies for talent and pay above average wages, but not every brand can (or wants to).
The "Made in Italy" is a common misdirection which extends beyond apparel. The "GreenPan" company is a Chinese company who placed a small portion of their manufacturing in Italy, fully managing both locations and reportedly with imported workers as well. Their inexpensive "Made in Italy" pans sell in discount stores and do well enough to expand to a "Stanley Tucci" collection. If it's cheap, it's not what it seems to be.
ReplyDeleteThe only Italian goods that I fancy right now are faience pottery pieces done in that very traditional naive style ... for these I turn to The Island Shop of Bermuda. Oh wait ... I pretty much exclusively watch RAI productions on Prime. So, my bases are covered on both of these fronts. Not into the Milan fashion scene whatsoever ... collars up !!!
ReplyDelete