Some excerpts from a BBC article that a friend forwarded on to me, perhaps because of all of the tweed that shows up on this site <https://www.saltwaternewengland.com/search?q=tweed>.
From the article:
"Tweed is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable fabric, minimising the environmental impact of manufacturing," says Martin Crawford, consultant at Anderson & Sheppard, the Savile Row tailor behind King Charles's double-breasted tweed coat...
Originating in Scotland and Ireland, tweed began as a practical and functional fabric to keep out the cold, and then evolved to become synonymous with British aristocracy and country life, when shooting and hacking jackets were adopted by the upper classes in the 19th Century. Luxury fashion labels were responsible for its contemporary revival, led by Chanel in the 1950s. The label's iconic tweed jacket remains one of fashion's most covetable – and copied – items today...
The name "Harris Tweed" is protected by legislation, under The Harris Tweed Act of 1993, and only fabric produced in the Outer Hebrides, by hand, can bear the famous Orb label...
"Tweed is a fabric that comes from the land, and the natural dye palettes often reflect the regions and landscapes from which it comes. I can always spot an Irish tweed," she says, having spent her summers for the past 20 years in Kerry, Ireland...
Much like Harris tweed, Donegal tweed – from County Donegal in north-west Ireland – has been manufactured for centuries. While both Irish and Scottish tweeds share an almost identical weight of 15/16oz, the main differences between them, says Crawford, are that Donegal is machine-woven, and its random flecks of colour are its distinctive trademark.
- The Princess of Wales to Gigi Hadid: How ultra-traditional tweed found a new fanbase <https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20241210-how-ultra-traditional-tweed-found-a-new-fanbase>
I agree, it's a classic. However, tweed is too warm for this cold-blooded New Englander to wear indoors most of the time. That relegates it to overcoat status for me, and even there, I prefer other options like Cashmere or lighter-weight wool.
ReplyDeleteUnlike wool worsted, a Harris tweed jacket will not really crease. So it is low maintenance and particularly useful in a British climate.
DeleteOther tweeds can also be similar, but the smoother tweeds are closer to worsted.
Donegal tweed missed a trick by not getting the cloth officially recognised to prevent others passing their wares off as Donegal.
Nice articles about this timeless cloth. I love tweed, and am fortunate to have many items from the best place to find off-the-peg tweed nowadays – Cordings. Their offerings of jackets, coats, waistcoats, suits, trousers, field coats, and caps are classic, high quality, beautiful, and provide lasting value. (Often, while trooping around in my Cordings’ tweeds many people have stopped me on the street asking where I got such great looking clothes, and I’m sure you’ll have similar experiences, as well.)
ReplyDeletehttps://www.cordings.co.uk/us/field-coat-house-check.html
The few tweed jackets I have are from Paul Stuart. They're very nice. Their tweed jackets are fairly full-cut and quite expensive; I think Cordings' pricing is more reasonable. What is your experience with sizing for Cordings - do they run relatively narrow, like some other kinds of clothing from the UK/EU?
DeleteOkay, I've just gone ahead and taken the plunge on a Cordings sport jacket. I say "taken the plunge" not because of the cost (although the sale price was a plus) but because of uncertainty about sizing...and the faff of making a return across the pond.
DeleteThe design and patterns I see on tweed jackets worn in/available from Britain seem quite different from those in the US, or am I wrong? Mostly what's on offer here are herringbone/broken bone patterns or large glen plaids. Maybe the occasional hound's-tooth. Gorgeous, of course. But British jackets (I am thinking of Cordings here) seem to be of a very plain background with some sort of overplaid or grid pattern in either a matching or contrasting color.
Different markets. What sells in America would not sell well here and visa versa.
DeleteAlso the way jackets are cut often differ.
What is on offer from, say, a retailer in Charleston, South Carolina would have no appeal to me.
nglish jackets have a narrower waist than Ivy "sack" jackets from brands such as O'Connell's, J Press and The Andover Shop.
DeleteIt is worth checking the updated size guides when purchasing anything from Cordings. They are more extensive and, in my experience, accurate than previously. Just measure a jacket/garment that fits you well and compare it against the measurements in the size guide.
On jacket design, the correct term for "overplaid or grid pattern" is windowpane which is a British classic. However, pattern matching is a big issue if you need to shorten the sleeves. If in doubt, buy a plain design!
It's also worth checking the specification, especially for cloth weights, This season, Cordings has introduced the Shetland herringbone blazer which (unsusually) has a soft shoulder construction, two button front and twin side vents.
Btw, having measured my jumpers, the new Shetlands from Harley come up about a size smaller than those from the previous Cordings supplier.
Hopefully, this advice will reduce the need for returns across the pond.
I agree Ken. Here in the U.K. clothes generally have a narrower profile than in the U.S. Being slim I find a narrower profile more flattering than a looser fit other than my shooting clothes.
DeleteMy closets are full of tweed, I've been wearing it since my teens (which is a very long time ago). To get good tweed you need to pay a lot of money, I have items both shop bought and bespoke and wear it all. Like Robert Reichardt I do often get complemented on my dress. As recently as last Sunday the manager of the small country hotel in the Dale's (Yorkshire Dales) where we were lunching told me it was nice to see somebody dressed appropriately for a change. I was wearing a tweed hacking jacket and cavalry twills. Regarding Cordings cut, I would say yes it is on the narrow side.
ReplyDeleteI find Harris Tweed beautiful but too bulky. I prefer the Magee "Donegal Mist" which is softer and lighter.
ReplyDeleteCompletely agree. Harris Tweed has its place, but Magee tweeds are best for daily wear.
DeleteI agree. I do have one Harris tweed jacket but prefer other tweeds (particularly Yorkshire tweeds)
Delete@tjmataa: Interesting. How would you characterize Yorkshire tweeds?
DeleteThose woven in Yorkshire. A lot (it not most) of Cordings tweed is woven in Yorkshire. Yorkshire is highly regarded for the quality of it's tweed and tweed garments being the centre of the wool and weaving trade in the U.K. Also famous for it's worsted cloth which was first woven here. Lancashire on the other hand was famous for cotton and the cotton trade.
Delete@Sartresky: I probably didn't really answer your question. Tweed woven in Yorkshire is high quality and usually a very soft tweed woven in many different weights from very lightweight upwards. Some of the heavier tweeds are woven very tightly to make them essentially waterproof although most people now (particularly those who shoot like me) go for a lighter weight with a membrane. There is no specific pattern of Yorkshire tweed although country estates will have their own particular pattern woven exclusively for their estate workers and gamekeepers. Other groups e.g. The Yorkshire Agricultural Society have their own patterns woven in their own colours. Companies like Cordings will also have patterns woven exclusively for them. I hope this better answers your question. (And by the way I particularly like Yorkshire tweed as I'm a proud Yorkshireman!)
DeleteYes, thank you, very interesting.
DeleteAndrew;
ReplyDeleteOf course, it’s subjective according to your physical build, but I haven’t found Cordings’ Tweed Jackets to be overly narrow. (Their Tweed Trousers are narrower at the calf and ankle (typical British cut) than what American are used to, but so far as jackets go, I’d say no.)
What’s more, I like that Cordings’ jackets don’t skimp on the hem length – a common problem with many other sellers in recent years - where it looks as if they suddenly ran out of material half way through. Hope this helps.
I have several garments in Lovat Mill' tweeds from Cordings, Oliver Brown and Gieves & Hawkes. It's also possible to buy the cloth from from online retailers at very reasonable prices. Lawrence & Foster will make LM tweed caps to order.
ReplyDeleteA classic to be sure!
ReplyDeleteJ Press sold Donegal jackets over 40 years ago. This I know because I wear two which belonged to my father. He bought them on York Street.
ReplyDelete