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Made in England, John Partridge for Ladies - Kept. Photos by Salt Water New England |
A paddock jacket is a smart, versatile item, perfect for Autumn. Medium-weight, quilted, and designed for riding, it should maintain a sturdy, functional design.
What I look for in a paddock jacket first is fit. It needs to allow for freedom of movement, which means enough room through the shoulders and arms. (Many paddock jackets now on the market are fitted.) And as I no longer ride, I don’t mind my paddock jacket being a bit longer.
Inherently a paddock jacket is not a big, heavy cold-weather garment so I don’t want it weighted down with heft.
I also look for breathability, which is why I don’t like synthetic paddock jackets (or any synthetic quilted jacket), despite their light weight, low manufacturing cost, and the immense popularity of them originating with the made-in-England Husky jackets.
Synthetics fail the snag-test, and the rain-test. Synthetics are not repairable and don’t get better with age and use. I have owned and worn many of these synthetic paddock jackets but have since given all but one away.
I look for paddock jackets made of pure wool, whether tweed or Loden cloth. These breathe, are tougher and can take the errant branch or pricker, and they have a better drape. They will get better with age. Wool is also quiet. The slight added weight over synthetics is a price I am happy to pay.
For collars, I like either corduroy or moleskin.
Button closures are not a deal breaker, but I prefer the type of snaps known as silent studs. When walking with your jacket unfastened you don’t want to be distracted by the rattle of cheap closures (where else is the vendor cutting corners?). The advantage to snaps over buttons is simply speed. One good tug and your jacket is open. The side/back vents (designed for more comfort and flexibility in the saddle) should also have snaps.
If you want to go with a unisex fit (read that, if you are a women looking at men’s clothes), then raglan sleeves are preferred (as with the Barbour Bedale and Beaufort styles). Set-in sleeves (as with the Barbour Border) can be too overwhelming on a female. And if the sleeves are too long, I simply roll them back. (Just one reason a snappy lining is a plus.)
Colors are also critical. With synthetics, Navy and Olive are the best. With wool, the possibilities are almost endless. But the default strategy for colors applies. I choose colors that help me blend into my environment, be it the rocky shores or fields and woods.
Paddock jackets can be worn as any medium weight jacket can, and once you find a good one, it becomes an indispensable wardrobe staple.
Buy hard, dress easy,
Muffy
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Barbour Liddesdale, Offshored, Synthetic - Gave Away |
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Navy Unisex Barbour Liddesdale, Offshored, Synthetic - Gave Away |
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Cordings Made in England Loden Cloth - Kept |
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Burberry, Made in England, Synthetic - Kept |
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Barbour Keeperwear Quilt for Menvia Orvis NY, Offshored, Synthetic - Gave Away |
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Cordings Made in Europe Men's Wool - Kept |
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Navy Unisex Barbour Liddesdale, Offshored, Synthetic - Gave Away |
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Barbour Offshored Women's Corduroy - Gave Away |
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The Barbour Eskdale Jacket for Ladies, Synthetic, Offshored - Gave Away |
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The Barbour Countryman, Made in England, Synthetic - Gave Away (Originally a liner for their waxed jackets.) |
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The Barbour Eskdale Jacket for Ladies, Synthetic, Offshored - Gave Away |
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Cordings Made in England Loden Cloth - Kept |
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In the L.L. Bean Bootmobile |
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Burberry Made in England Synthetic - Kept |
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Burberry Made in England Synthetic - Kept |
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Barbour Keeperwear Quilt for Men Offshored Synthetic via Orvis NY - Gave Away |
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Navy Unisex Barbour Offshored Synthetic - Gave Away |
Sheer perfection! Thank you so very much!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful jackets. On the subject of outerwear, would anyone have any recommendations on styles or brands for a woman who is 5 foot 2 inches? Finding outerwear that fits can be difficult for me to find.
ReplyDeleteI am also 5’2” and find Joules jackets are not too overwhelming. I wear a 4P or 6P in most clothing but a medium in Joules jackets so I can layer if needed. Good luck . scotmiss
ReplyDeleteThank you. I will have to check that out.
DeleteMy Barbour Liddesdale is a huge XXL. I wear it occasionally but it isn’t a favorite. I also have a Chelsea in the same size, XXL which is much smaller. I find it frustrating that the fits within one company are so divergent. The Vietnamese made Liddesdale has quality issues but so do the button fly trousers I bought from Cordings. So, it is on a case to case basis, I suppose.
ReplyDeleteYou won't find a better Paddock jacket than Cordings' Navy Shetland Tweed version of this. It has all the features anyone would want, and is also great looking.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.cordings.co.uk/us/navy-shetland-wool-paddock-jacket.html
Robert: would you say sizing is comparable to US sizing?
DeleteYes it is, (belatedly - sorry, but I didn't see your question). Cordings' sizing is spot on without any surprises. Hope this helps.
DeleteCordings' paddock jackets have unusually long sleeves, up to 2 or 3 inches longer than normal . If you don’t want to turn them up, check the length in your size before buying.
DeleteI have paddock jackets from both John Partridge and Orvis which I've had a long time and which I like. I also still have one Barbour Liddesdale and rarely wear it as it is frankly rubbish, both in fit and quality.
ReplyDeleteApologies, I meant to say John Partridge and Cordings (I don't own any Orvis paddock jackets - I had just been looking at an Orvis catalogue before I wrote the comment!).
ReplyDeleteI have two paddock jackets in dry waxed cotton - Cording's and Barbour’s Chelsea from John Lewis in London.
ReplyDeleteAnother superb article! Thank you!
ReplyDelete