Photo by Muffy Aldrich
The Modern Guide to The Thing Before Preppy

Monday, July 3, 2023

Three Rules for a Wardrobe Base: Classic Designs; A Bit Loose; Of Natural Fibers


If you want to build a wardrobe that lasts, it comes down to three simple concepts.

1. Classic designs

Lean into clothes that are made of classic designs with a bit of structure.  Khakis.  Oxfords.  Polo shirts.  Shetland sweaters.  

And use mostly colors that you would find on the New England's coast: blue (sky, sea, hydrangea); white (clouds, whitecaps); pink and green (beach roses) for the summer; more muted tones for the autumn and winter - think winter marshes, pine forests, heather, rocky shores.

2. A bit loose

Clothes should be a bit on the loose side.  

They let your body breathe. They also enable physical activities. They don't demand attention, including from yourself.    

And loose fitting clothes last longer.  They adjust a bit as (spoiler alert) your body inevitably does.  And they don't wear as quickly from the stress and friction of a tight fit.  

(Jackets that are too short share many of the same negatives as clothes that are too tight.)

3. Of natural fibers  

Cotton, wool, linen. A bit of cashmere.  A wisp of silk.  Leather and brass for the accessories.

Wool is the super material.  Antimicrobial.  Fire resistant.  Takes color well.  (Just compare brown wool to brown cotton.)  Cotton is versatile, soft, and ubiquitous.  

Don't get blends.  No synthetics.  No performance materials.  No vegan leather.  No no-iron coatings.  


Obviously, and ideally, all garments and accessories are made where they should be made, or at least not offshored to sweat shops.

This will give you a long lasting base to which you can add some dash as your mood suits. 

15 comments:

  1. These are easy rules for guys to follow except in the case of casual outerwear for very cold or very wet. Finding natural fiber and filling down clothing or anoraks or rain shells made in Canada, Western Europe, or the USA is quite challenging.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Patagonia comes to mind. Look for the FLA label, The Fair Labour Association. IMO, Patagonia brand would be an "okay" choice.

      Delete
    2. Yes. Patagonia makes nice things at fair prices using fair practices and recycling when possible. So it would be ok. In the late 1960s I got a cotton Anorak at REI. It wore out ages ago. I wish more natural fiber casual outerwear were offered. Almost all of it these days is both made of synthetic and treated with forever chemicals.

      Delete
    3. I don't love Canada Goose's excessive branding but I do appreciate that they produce their coats in Canada.

      Delete
    4. Canada Goose things look quite nice. They do not provide a lot of specs. Their prices make Patagonia look like the Dollar Store. Anybody have any observations as to the value they provide?

      Delete
  2. If anyone could recommend good sources for women's khakis and Oxford cloth shirts, I would be very grateful.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I can make the list even shorter. Stick with navy blue and white as much as possible. If you want to diversify, go for Burgundy red and bottle green. In the summer other colors are ok for madras and gingham shirts but for seersucker stick with blue and white. For shorts, khaki or Nantucket red.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I couldn't agree more! Limit your colors to those that span the seasons. Stick with classic styles and natural fibers. You may not be the most fashionably dressed, but you will always be appropriate. That's good enough for me!

      Delete
  4. These points were exactly what my parents lived out. They couldn’t stand anything trendy, tight or of man-made materials. And I wholeheartedly concur!
    - EDR

    ReplyDelete
  5. The classics never let us down!

    ReplyDelete
  6. These are very good recommendations. Especially timely, during these hot days, is “2. A bit loose.” Where it is hot all the time, and really hot (we’re not talking 80’s here), people wear loose fitting, flowing robes. Think of what Peter O’Toole wore in Lawrence of Arabia when he “went native.” Loose fitting flowing robes allow air to circulate about your body and, most importantly, keep the hot sun off bare skin.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Classic, loose fitting, and wool.

      Delete
  7. I highly recommend anything by Drake's London. Good value and simple design.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I'm vegan so I wear vegan leather shoes, belts etc. They are all well made classic shoes such as loafers, boat shoes etc. As a vegan, what else am I supposed to wear???

    ReplyDelete

Comments are moderated.