A reader question:
Do you have any good recommendations for sport coats? I've been doing the English-cut route recently, but would love a good American traditional jacket.
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The Modern Guide to The Thing Before Preppy
Muffy Aldrich
Muffy Aldrich, Editor of Salt Water New England: The Modern Guide to The Thing Before Preppy, is a 12th Generation New Englander, and called "The Official Photographer of Preppy New England." Since 2010.
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Field Tailors in Washington , DC for about as bespoke an experience as still exists. He skews English
ReplyDeleteJ Press' real strength is their sport coats. Same for the Andover Dhop.
ReplyDeleteIf you are looking for traditional Ivy-Style, sack cut, soft-shoulder, undarted, 3 button, 3/2 roll, hook vent sports jacket, look at J. Press and O'Connell's. If you don't mind darted jackets look at the Andover Shop.
ReplyDeleteActually, the Andover Shop offers some non-darted, single-vent sack models that are 2-button instead of 3/2. I grant that the majority of their current off-the-rack sport coats are double-vented but they are still in a classic American cut. Most importantly, they use tweeds (e.g., gamekeeper) that you just don't see elsewhere.
DeleteJ. Press
ReplyDeleteGet thee to J Press.
ReplyDeleteAndover Shop
ReplyDeleteO'connell's is staunch
ReplyDeleteOxxford is my favorite, if price is no object. The only dedicated store I'm aware of is in New York City, otherwise hunt for retailers who carry the brand.
ReplyDeleteEtsy...I got a 3 roll 2 tan herringbone Harris tweed sack made by Chipp in impeccable condition for under $100. It has swelled seams, leather knot buttons, single vent, and even a throat latch.
ReplyDeleteSouthwick, H. Freeman, or Trunk Show to get it right.
ReplyDeleteSince Southwick was a victim of the train wreck of the store now called Brooks Brothers (named for an actual beloved store that ceased to exist in the early 1980s), finding Southwicks is getting harder and harder. O'Connell's, The Andover Shop, and Cable Car Clothiers still have a few. If you find one in your size that you like, do not hesitate to pull the trigger.
DeleteMartin Greenfield Clothiers
ReplyDeleteLong-standing, family-owned menswear shop known for made-to-order suits, tuxedos, pants & outerwear.
239 Varet St, Brooklyn, NY 11206
greenfieldclothiers.com
(718) 497-5480
He is a 95 year old legend who has outfitted presidents and CEOs for decades. Look him up in Wikipedia. It is worth paying him a visit; JFK was a good customer.
Also, Oxxford Clothes has their flagship store at Fifth Avenue at 58th Street. They also outfitted presidents. You can't go wrong with either.
J. Press! Thanks so very much!
ReplyDeleteAll of the recommendations here so far are spot-on. I'll push back a little on the Brooks Brothers derision. They're well-past SWNE's stages of manufacturer decline, but they offer some winning sport coats that are a remarkable value (especially on sale). A number of their sport coat offerings (though certainly not all) even have some of the classic American style hallmarks like 1/4" edge stitching and either a center vent or patch pockets.
ReplyDeleteI'll also second the eBay or Etsy suggestion. There are some terrific jackets available secondhand on both platforms. Try looking for vintage Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Chipp, Andover, O'Connell's, Ben Silver, or even makes like Hart Schaffner & Marx, Jos. A. Bank, Haspel, or Corbin (so long as they're at least 20-30+ years old). And, of course, Southwick. Hard to go wrong if you can find one of theirs in your size.