Photo by Salt Water New England

Thursday, April 15, 2021

Tweed Jackets?

 

I just turned 60 and would like to treat myself to a nice tweed sports jacket. I’d like something on the heavier side for fall and winter wear. Many I’ve seen online,  such as those at Cordings, appear very fitted. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

 

68 comments:

  1. Frederick J JohnsonApril 15, 2021 at 11:01 AM

    Get Thee to J Press.

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    1. Seasonal perhaps? Nothing online at this time. Thanks.

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    2. Agreed but Connell's and the Andover shop are the other options for a traditional undarted sports jacket with natural shoulders and centre vent.

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  2. Honestly your best bet might be scouring thrift stores or eBay and find yourself a vintage tweed sports coat. That's what I did finding both a Magee Donegal tweet and an old Orvis Harris jacket, both full, both very high quality, on eBay. They're honestly better than anything I've seen new recently and will likely last longer than anything new.

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  3. Great idea, but would likely require a lot of time and patience to find my size and taste. Thanks.

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    1. Less than you'd think. I'm not exactly an "off the shelf" size (50R/L depending on the maker) and I've had little to nhttps://www.saltwaternewengland.com/logout?d=https://www.blogger.com/logout-redirect.g?blogID%3D8714922182513339530%26postID%3D4046932357248091796o problems finding what I want, especially on eBay. And if you find something that's not quite the right size, you can always use what savings you've got to get it properly fit.

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  4. I second J.Press. I have several now, some almost 10 years old, and still look great! Can't go wrong with J Press. Barbour also had some solid choices, but with a British cut.

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  5. I would go to O’Connells! Skip J. Press and head to O’Connells for traditional, non-fitted, Harris tweed jackets. They carry several great colors, plus they are great to work with via phone and/or email. Good luck.

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    1. Caveat Emptor...read the return & exchange policy as well as freight at O'Connell's.

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    2. Wow! Thanks. My only complaint here is too many choices.

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  6. J Press. But like you noticed you have to wait closer to fall when they get their fall/winter selection in.

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  7. O'Connell's Clothing. The store is in Buffalo, NY. Generous selection of Harris tweed blazers. Generally a great source for traditional men's clothing. They have a good website...or road trip to Buffalo for O'Connell's and buffalo wings at the Anchor Bar.



    In season, try Paul Stuart, Saks, Bergdorf Goodman.

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  8. I'm not particularly svelte and didn't experience any issues when I tried out for the Cordings. I ended up with a Walker Slater to get authentic Harris (Scottish) tweed as opposed to Cording's house (English) tweed.

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  9. J Press. Thank you. New, or “previously owned,” they are the standard. There are two in my winter closet. Both belonged to my father. Both are herringbones. One is a Donegal Mist traditional grey and black. The other has garnered compliments from Harlem to rue St Honoré. It is black and brown.
    They each must be at least 30 years old.

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  10. Click the link to the right for Cordings. They have a nice selection of tweed jackets.

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  11. After Brooks Brothers changed in the eighties I became a J. Press customer, but in recent years change has been afoot there. Several years ago I began shopping at O'Connell's and have been thrilled with the service and the wares. They have a superb selection of tweed jackets cut in the 3 roll 2 sack beloved by preps and trads. Their house brand stuff is superb. As you may know Southwick has folded. If you are fortunate enough that any of their remaining Southwick stock fits you, they "go to eleven" as Nigel Tufnel would say.

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    1. Thanks for the recommendation. Extra points for the Spinal Tap reference.

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    2. Size up one size for a Southwick Harris Tweed in my experience. Bought mine at O'Connell's.

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  12. If you are looking for a "traditional", heavy-weight tweed, then I recommend a Harris Tweed: https://www.harristweedshop.com/index-men.html

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    1. Excellent choice. I was able to buy at the shop, but have since purchased vis email

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  13. Kevin & Howlin tweed shop in Dublin. The best for tweed. I have two. Custom work also.

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  14. I recommend Cordings Tweed Jackets in a weight of 15oz and above.

    I own two tweed jackets from them (a Jones Marl in a 20oz, and a brown Harris Dunmore Tweed in a 15oz), and don't find either of them overly "fitted" so that you can't wear them casually with cords or jeans.

    Cordings carries six excellent tweed jackets year round, and adds limited edition models in the Spring and Fall. Both of my jackets are limited Fall editions

    I find the quality of Cordings tweed jackets to be superb, and once you own one everything else is second best. Believe me -- I've worn about every brand out there. What's more, the price is very reasonable for what you get. Hope this helps.

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    1. Thank you. They actually called me to respond to my questions.

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  15. Not all Cordings tweed jackets are fitted. You may wish to contact them for assistance. I personally prefer Walker & Slater in Glasgow: https://www.walkerslater.com/menswear/menswear-tweed/tweed-jackets.
    Alternatively, there are other gentleman's outfitters such as Purdey's, Peter Christian and Huntsman who have superb tweed jackets but at almost exorbitant prices.Good luck on your search.

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  16. Take a look at "House of Bruar" they are online and their clothing is well made and lasts forever. Fantastic Scottish tweeds!

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  17. Decide what style you want before going with a British tweed. The English cut tends to have a suppressed waist, darts and double vents, unlike the more traditional jackets you'd find at Press, Andover Shop or O'Connells.

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  18. J. Press of course! Thank you!

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  19. Replies
    1. Thank you. Never though "happy" and "60th" would go together, but other than a few aches and pains it's not all that bad.

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  20. Something Harris tweed, Dongeal, or J. Press as others have already suggested. The J. Press models are slightly less heavy, which, depending on where you live, might be more comfortable for wear indoors and/or outdoors. I'm wearing my J. Press today (with tan cords and chocolate suede camp mocs) for later Zoom meetings and other work from home activities since it is still a bit nippy here in Mid-Michigan. Happy birthday by the way.

    Tweedly Regards,

    Heinz-Ulrich

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  21. J. Press. I have a second one a size up so I can fit a Shetland sweater under it.

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  22. Having been in Cording’s “new” store and also purchased a suit online, there is nothing slim or modern about the fit. I am not sure why they dress their models like they do, it gives the wrong impression. I highly recommend everything they sell.

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  23. What is offered recordings is not nearly as fitted as it appears online. In fact they are cut in a very similar fashion to J press and O’Connell’s offerings.

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  24. You might try BROOKS BROTHERS .

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    1. Brooks no longer offers sack jackets with a 3/2 roll. Press does, but they also offer MIC jackets. The old labels are not what they once were. With the loss of Southwick, once their stock is gone, principally at O'Connell's and, for a premium, Cable Car Clothiers, the 3/2 sack options are thrifting, bespoke, or something I do not know about. It is not a problem for me, being 72 and well outfitted, but for others it is a sad state of affairs. Another commenter referenced Ben Silver. I wonder if they would provide a hook vent option and install the vestigial third button and button hole. It would not be a sack, but the beauty of their broken bone tweeds might make up for that.

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  25. If you are not set on a 3 roll 2 with a center hook vent go to Ben Silver. They offer many fine sport coats with a 2 button closure and double vents. If you want a traditional look then O'Connell or JPress(in season) are the places to go.

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    1. For a relatively small extra charge, Ben Silver will make a 3 roll 2 with a center vent.

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    2. If they would make that more obvious on their site, I think they would make more sales.

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  26. You will find true old world craftsmanship through thrift stores and may come to enjoy the hunt.

    Will

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  27. Almost everything that I think that is relevant to your question has been said by the folks preceding me, and I agree with their suggestions. I have one extra suggestion, and it is not about a specific maker, but about a strategy which I have found useful in purchasing not just clothes, but books as well:

    As some have recommended, the thrift shop approach is an excellent way of finding styles, makes and cuts that are no longer available. But it is also a way to see if you like a particular maker, or cut or style. Jackets can be acquired inexpensively and tried out. If you do not like a piece after you have worn it a few times, you can always donate it back to one of the thrift shops. This way, you will also learn what features of a jacket you like, and what you don't. With this experience and knowledge, you can then go to a regular shop and pay full price for a jacket you really will like and wear for a long time.

    As a book collector, I often will pick up a new author at the library. If I really like the book, then I will invest time and money in finding first editions and first printings of the best quality for that author to add to my collection. This way, I will not simply purchase books that I end up not liking. This makes a big difference to someone like me who buys a lot of books.

    Well, bonne chance!

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  28. J. Press, The Andover Shop, vintage stores, estate sales in places like Dover, Massachusetts, etc.

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  29. Bucktrout Tailoring. I just bought my first tweed jacket from them (classic fit) and I am really enjoying it.

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  30. Not sure I can add more to what's already been said... If you want something for everyday run the the hardware or grocery store, thrift stores and goodwill can be gold mines for good if less than stylishly fitted but solid workhorse jackets. As for something more appropriate for dinner out or a concert then those resources referenced by others would work.

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  31. If you have the money and don't mind spending more, Permanent Style now has available an old and quite beautiful Holland & Sherry weave that had been discontinued; you must order the cloth thru Permanent Style and then take it to a bespoke tailor. Google 'permanent style introducing ps harris tweed'.

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  32. I've always found ( for me .... ) that jackets and trousers have to be tried , whilst coats can often be a blind buy .

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  33. Do you have any video of that? I'd love to find out more details.

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