A reader question:
Dear Editor,
What is the thought on Rolex watches? I have never been interested in one, but my wife has proposed purchasing one for a big milestone. I think many models are gaudy and the culture around the brand has become a little over the top. However, the Explorer I is a beautiful watch and seems the be the most simple, iconic and affordable choice.
Personally I'm not a fan. My wife and I were having lunch at a nice hotel recently when a young couple came in and sat at the adjoining table. They were showing signs of " new money" with gucci handbag and leather rucksac etc. He was wearing a Rolex (everything looked brand new) But they didn't carry off the look of wealth. My wife looked at me and and grinned. I said new Rolex and she asked me how I knew. I said "gaudy" and she smiled
ReplyDeleteYou’re snobs, it limits you.
DeleteThank you. That's a nice compliment. I respect you're opinion even though you don't respect mine ( which I rather think limits you)
DeleteI'm with you. Not much of a fan of ostentatious displays of wealth.
Deletede gustibus non est disputatum
DeleteVery well put
DeleteI received a Rolex from my parents for my college graduation just as my dad received one from his parents. It is a very simple Air King model and I've been wearing it daily for 30+ years and I am very happy with it.
DeleteThe Rolex watch/Gucci handbag pairing sounds just about right. The horror, the horror.
DeleteYes they matched well the head to toe tattoos and body piercings (on both male and female). I won't mention their dress sense. And did I mention he left his car keys on the table with a large key fob indicating he drove a Range Rover Defender? I wonder why he felt the need to do that? I won't be buying a Rolex any time soon!
DeleteThey are great watches, the issue is getting them...I have been on the AD list for an Explorer 2 for over 15 months...and I have purchase history. Pretty crazy. Gray market may be the way to go. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteThe EX2 doesn't have wait times, the AD just doesn't like you. You should be able to get one within a few weeks or months, it's not exactly a desired model.
DeleteSpeaking as someone who owned a Rolex Submariner his entire adult life, I think the prices have gotten out of hand the last decade. Still a great watch, but there are attractive alternatives.
ReplyDeleteFor example, if you want the same watch that was on James Bond's wrist in "Casino Royale", then I recommend the gorgeous blue-dialed Omega Seamaster: https://www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-210-30-42-20-03-001.html (That's the one Vesper asked him about on the train.)
Of course, if you want to impress somebody, then go for the solid gold Rolex President which will set you back a cool $60,000 (plus you'll probably need to hire a body guard to follow you around.) Interestingly, once upon a time, people thought I owned one of these. Actually, it was only a very good fake copy that I bought from an insistent street vendor in Port Said, Egypt. My "Gold Rolex President" set me back a total of 35 Cyprus Pounds (about 40 bucks). You couldn't really tell the difference unless you looked very closely, or felt the cheap metal.
Nowadays, I happily wear a Timex Easy Reader ($40) with the great Indiglow feature for dark time checks.
I purchased a submariner 27 years ago. It has been a great watch, a great investment and a pleasure to own. No reason to try and impress anyone. I just like things that work and work well. It is a great investment as it has done nothing but increase in value since originally purchased.
ReplyDeleteI bought mine 54 years ago for $125.00 (with the submariner logo in red). I enjoy wearing it...my only regret was not buying the Daytona along with it for $150.
DeleteHow about a watch by Patek Phillipe? They are supposed to be the finest watches in the world and they seem less garish. The price tags are unbelievable.
ReplyDeleteIt's crazy that a few years ago the wristwatch business was all but over. Then it surged as people considered them the same as an accessory. The secondhand watch websites are crazy popular. It will take some research to find what you want. Do you like the Cartier Tank? I think they are very classic and excuse the pun - timeless.
ReplyDeleteRolex makes a very good watch.
ReplyDeleteRolex makes a vast array, ranging from very simple and unassuming to "hey, look at me!" big and gaudy. I have one of the simple ones, a stainless Oyster with a leather strap, that was given to me by my parents as a graduation gift from high school in 1967. Because of the sentimental value, I keep it running, but servicing it costs many times what the watch cost when new. It keeps time well but not as well as the Chopard my wife gave me and the Girard-Perregaux I inherited from my great grandfather. All three of those watches are simple, and I find that a good thing. Likewise for my Timex Expedition.
ReplyDeletei'd rather have the money compounding in my brokerage account. i'd rather be wealthy, than look wealthy. to each their own. makes the world go round.
ReplyDeleteI'm with you
DeleteYou’re talking about an 8k watch. Unless your like 18 and have decades of compounding ahead of you it won’t make much difference.
DeleteI have an early aughts Datejust, boring but fine. I have others by Longines, Tudor, and some micro brands that are much more interesting. Wife has a Cartier. Can’t go wrong with an Explorer I in my opinion.
ReplyDeleteExplorer is a great underrated watch. Bought a Rolex 1601 Bimetallic Date Just in October 1975 . Runs like a sewing machine. Have a bit of experience with women's watches, gave my grandmother an Omega in 1966 that I picked up in Switzerland , Girlfriend # 1 Rolex Small Dial Gold Stainless, Girlfriend # 2 Cartier Tank Crocodile Strap . Girlfriend # 1 ended up being my bride acquired Large Cartier Tank with metal band, & Large Dial Chanel. My son's bride gave her heirlooms that I wore 1930's Gruen Veri Thin & 1950's Omega Seamaster 31 mm dial with crocodile straps. Arm wear appeal.
ReplyDeletePeople do not realize what it is. Makes a good story.
PS. In the early 80's in Houston, anybody with 2 nickels to rub together bought a Rolex. I semiretired mine. That's when the Swatch made it's debut. I still wear the same model today as a backup
I remember Houston in the early eighties well. There was a type who wore a gigantic gold Rolex with bracelet a bit loose, a suit with the pants cuffed too long, long enough for the fabric to pool over their Luccheses, and a starched white shirt. He usually carried a Halliburton brief case. I worked at Texas Commerce. It was a pretty safe bet that his net worth was at least eight digits, often more, and that we banked him.
DeleteLOL, sounds about right especially the briefcase. It was popular with the oilfield. I made out with my Hartmann working for Tenneco.
DeleteI’ve worn a Submariner for years. In the military, I wanted a wristwatch that would provide me with the time and date when I wanted it not when it wanted to (such as a battery running down in the field). Therefore, an automatic watch or manual wind was the best option. I bought the Rolex sports model and it never let me down. Preppy? Trad? I could have cared less when my clothes were cammo and needed to put “steel in the target” at the right place and correct time. Not trying to be brash on the Rolex issue. It met a need. It still works. No need to even spend $40 on a Timex when mine is still showing me the time and date when I want it to.
ReplyDeleteRolex watches are great, they are expensive for sure and a lot of that is brand premium, but their quality is top notch, they will last for generations with minimum care. I think they are great pieces for milestones, graduation (probably not for high school or even college, but let's say med school), getting married, retirement you name it. Even better if they are passed down to you on those special occasions, my grandfather gave me his when I turned 30 and it is and will always be my favorite watch.
ReplyDeleteIf you buy one, you forfeit any moral high ground where supposedly caring about the underprivileged is concerned. Try giving your money to a helpful cause instead of voting to tax other people while you live the high life.
ReplyDeleteGood point!
DeleteBad point. They are a great investment, and bulletproof if you buy preowned. I was in the military and appreciate vintage ones. I didn’t forfeit anything. What have you done.
DeleteRolexes are great for purpose and seem to have that purpose at the heart of their lineage. When I was a young officer in the navy, many years ago, I wore a Submariner and it was perfect for being on ships at sea - functional, reliable, indestructible. After that, I found it useful when sailing for more than a day sail, but tired of the size and the heft. It was noticeably heavy and large and required me to have shirts made with one larger cuff to ensure that it stayed out of sight. I think the Omega line is worth a look. I like simple elegance and discretion. I have worn a mechanical, gold Cartier Tank Normale with a gold Boucle Deployante for over 40 years. It keeps perfect time and disappears under a normal cuff where nobody else has to see it. And, yes, the occasional service charges for upkeep of all of these great watches are witheringly expensive. I confess that I wear my Apple Watch more and more often!
ReplyDeleteThe only person who can pull off this move is Buck Sgt. Airborne John Tinseth aka The Trad Blog search Rolex. A NCO opinion which is hilarious.
DeleteNouveau riche. Show-offy. Out of the question.
ReplyDeleteSpot on.
DeleteI bought a Submariner about three years ago. As I was in my early 60's - it was the chance to fulfill a long standing desire to own such a fine time piece. Yes - the money could have gone to better uses...but I had worked hard in my career - raised a beautiful family - had the financial means - and made it happen. Love the fact that my son will some day own it and most likely his son.
ReplyDeleteCouldn't agree more
ReplyDeleteVery interesting to me that watch questions always elicit responses, and Rolex in particular, whether positive or negative.
ReplyDeleteI have a 1957 Oyster Perpetual Datejust. I purchased it about 8 years ago. It has a very classic design, and it is very understated (those two descriptors are synonymous with one another, as we all know). It is very handsome. However, I have come to think of it more as an heirloom to pass down to my son, because my daily wearer is a 5 year old analog Timex, that has proven time and time again to be indestructible. The Rolex also needs a tune-up, and I’m just not prepared to spend that much money to get it done “right” just so it will run like the Timex. I don’t regret the purchase. At the end of the day, the only one who will really care about what kind of watch you are wearing is you.
ReplyDeleteRolex makes great watches. And as long as your choice doesn't have unnecessary bling, it is definitely TTBP. Little known fact: the company is owned by a charitable foundation. The profits go into making better watches and philanthropic causes. I laughed at the person who said you should give your money to charity. Rolex is a charity.
ReplyDeleteWith that said, you might consider buying a gently used model. There are lots of certified sellers on Ebay. You will get a much better price, and the watch with not have the gaudy look of a brand new item.
The Explorer and Air King are handsome, refined watches. My choice is a stainless Date with a plain bezel. I have relatively small wrists, so the 34mm size works well for me. You can find authenticated stainless Dates for under 4k.
I love the Submariner (along with the Omega Speedmaster and Seamaster). But they are too big and heavy for me. Happy shopping.
Can’t agree more. Buy the watch that’s best suited for you and don't worry too much about other’s opinions. Odds are, since you’re on this blog, you and your wife will opt for an understated time piece instead of a golden diamond encrusted showy display which will likely become a target of theft.
ReplyDeleteI personally enjoy the Tudor collection as they are more in line with what Rolex used to be. Purpose built. Some of them are still issued around the world to military personnel. Omega has some great options too, which are suited for becoming heirloom watches.
I think of these types of watches to be more inline with an engagement ring or genuine pearls. Likely of good quality and probably not what one would normally pay for jewelry/accessories. Bought for a loved one and preserved for future generations.
Watches are worn for many reasons. All my life I’ve never worn one. You get pretty good at estimating time. I’m usually within 15 minutes, at most, to the minute. Too boot, if you live in NYC you know every dry cleaner has a clock visible from the sidewalk. Is there a dry cleaner on every block in NYC? Maybe.
ReplyDeleteQuite simply, wear whatever you want as long as it is appropriate.
ReplyDeleteIt is impossible to please everyone so why bother trying. I’m sure
that there are some people clad in Dubarry boots, Barbour coats
Swedish sweaters and carrying Lotuf bags who will think that your
choice of wristwatch is shallow and ostentatious.
Wow!
DeleteYou forgot the unstarched, unironed OCBD with frayed collar and watch with no second hand and grosgrain strap.
DeleteBuying a Rolex instead of something like a Bulova is the same as buying a Mercedes instead of a Mercury. You don't need a Rolex, you want one because they're so dang cool. Awarding value to ephemeral features is very human and okay. However, you ought to acknowledge it's a luxury.
ReplyDeleteBut the model and how you wear it matter to people you encounter. If you wave around one that's large and gaudy gold, expect many people to think you're a jerk. If you have one that's silver and maybe black and is worn discretely under your cuff, people are more likely to think you're a traditional gentleman.
Personally, I'd rather be seen as a gentleman.
We’ve been married 53 years so my original steel and gold would have been about 51 years old. I saved and saved as a bank teller and bought it at the Diamond Cellar in Columbus OH for $1776.00. I wore it constantly for about 35 years but then grew tired of it. Then when I put it on my aging eyes could not make out the time! It had a gold face and gold hands. On vacation in Paris I saw a Rolex store and went in and they told me it would be a huge mistake to have them change the face to white as it would greatly lessen the watch’s value. Then they informed me my small sized watch was no longer being made!
ReplyDeleteFast forward to a few years ago and on a golf amateur tour vacation for my husband I was killing time in a mall north of Ft Lauderdale. I saw a Rolex sign at a jewelry store and went in. In their vintage area I saw a steel and gold Rolex but with tiny diamonds for the numbers. I think it was in the high four figures. I tried it on and it fit. But it was used….as an only child I was squeamish about such things but also thought if my small size was no longer being made….
I took my husband there that night and asked to try it on. It was huge all of a sudden, sliding halfway up to my elbow. My original salesman had gone home for the day. I asked about the huge size and the young man helping me called the older man who had helped me. Turns out somebody else had gone in after me and had asked them to hold it for 24 hours and I was trying on another one. I did wonder if this was a sales ruse but I did not act super excited when I tried it on earlier. Anyway, my salesman this evening talked with the older man and he contacted the other person and unless they were willing to pay for it over the phone on the spot, they were going to let me buy it. That person said no and I got it. My husband had thought maybe the tiny diamonds would make it easier for me to tell the time, well, no…not really!
Back home in Indiana the only certified Rolex repairman bought my old one for $500. I still had the receipt, the box and even the bag from the Diamond Cellar. I wonder who is wearing it now.
And I was told to never let anybody take one apart and clean it….maybe this is true or not. It never was opened up in my lifetime and it was always perfect. In a way I miss it.
Classic case of seller's remorse...
DeleteI suppose it depends on "why" you are or want to buy a Rolex. Do you want it just because you want a Rolex, want to be able to say that you have a Rolex, or want people to say "oh, look, he has a Rolex!" Or, do you want to have a Rolex because you believe that you're buying a quality item that will last, is good value for the money? As other's have intimated, ostentatious displays of wealth are to be frowned upon. But, if the version you want is simple and elegant, and you can be worn tastefully, then go for it.
ReplyDeleteMy godmother gave me a Rolex Oyster Perpetual for my 53rd birthday. My father died age 53. Giving such a special gift was very meanungful for my godmother and receiving such a gift from my aunt will remain a cherished memory. Wore the watch often until one fateful encounter. Was in an elevator in the city. A very large and very imposing man joined me. We were the only ones in the elevator. He looked at me and said, "That's a nice Oyster you have." Call me paranoid but since then haven't worn the watch much. Hoping to get over this worry and taking the Rolex out for a walk before I cross to the other side of the river. Approaching 80th birthday so I had better get moving. By the way, the Rolex goes to my daughter when I check out. Whether she wears it or not, feel good about maintaining a family tradition.
ReplyDeleteHave you thought about a Jaegr Le Coultre Duo-Reverso? It's a beautiful watch, whether covered in steel, gold or diamonds. It's super accurate, and it's also the perfect travel watch; the reverse face can be set to whatever time zone you choose. (I absolutely love mine.)
ReplyDeleteRolex makes great steel watches but there are so many outstanding brands out there for every style, taste, and budget. Don't be lazy and stop at Rolex just because everyone knows it. Take the time to look at brands like IWC, Omega, Cartier, Patek Philippe, Breitling, Longines, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Sinn, Glashutte, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, among many, many others. If you're starting out the best values (IMO) are Longines, Tudor, and Sinn. While many watch enthusiasts love Rolex, and wear them with pride, in my experience it's also the brand for people who know nothing about watches but just want "a nice watch." Have fun and enjoy the process!
ReplyDeleteAn Explorer is about as timeless and understated as a Rolex can get. Looks about the same as they did in 1953. It’s the watch I wear about 95% of the time.
ReplyDeleteCorrect
DeleteIf no one knew what it was, perhaps a Rolex wouldn’t be so glaring.
ReplyDeleteRolex has always sponsored equestrian eventing so that's the watch I'll buy when I get a nice one. I don't care what 'today's clientele' is or is not.
ReplyDeleteFor now I just have a Timex.
My wife and I have had ours for over forty years, and loved them daily, and always will. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteI bought a Men's Rolex Explorer II Stainless Steel Watch with Oyster Band and Black Dial when I was in Taiwan in late 1980s. The new watch cost $1,200.
ReplyDeleteI wore the watch for 35 years, went swimming at the beach (salt water),
painted the house, etc.. Finally I got tired of the watch and saw an ad in the
paper advertising to buy Rolex watches. I sent the watch to them and
they bought it from me for $1,800. I replaced my watch with a digital
watch from Walmart for $10.75 (date, day of the week, large time, battery
3+ yr., water proof) I believe they put my watch up for sale at $7,500. I am very happy with my Walmart watch. Just think of this, if I lose it, I am out
$10.75.
I inherited an early 1980's stainless steel Datejust from my father as a gift when returning from my first deployment. He wore it daily for 35+ years without servicing it before giving it to me. The watch was worn everywhere: the beach, roofing rental properties we owned, and to the symphony and opera. I have had the watch independently serviced since receiving it, and the watchmakers were astonished when I told them it was its first servicing.
ReplyDeleteI am not a fan of the perception of Rolex owners writ large, nor am I a fan of the difficulty buying them now (even if one has the means to do so). As a result, all of my other watches are Omegas or Seikos. With that being said, having owned my father's Datejust for two years, and also wearing his "retirement" watch (a vintage solid gold Oyster Perpetual), I can say that the actual craftsmanship, quality, and durability of Rolex watches are second to none. It is very clear that the watches were made as tools--beautiful ones, for sure--to be used and worn. It is sad how much of that original purpose has been lost as the brand is now viewed by most people as another form of "investing" or as a way to display one's wealth and "superior taste".
It's a great point that Rolex watches have always been tools. Its most famous and popular watch, the submariner, is intended for diving but I'd estimate that 99.999% of the submariners sold are never used for diving. While I like the look of the submariner more than any other Rolex, with the exception of the Yacht Master in white gold, and the 1908 with the blue dial, I feel inauthentic wearing a watch intended for something I have no interest in doing.
DeleteA Submariner that has never been on a dive is like a Defender that has never been off-road.
DeleteThe Rolex Explorer is maybe one of the most versatile time pieces. If I could choose one Rolex, I'd take the Explorer. But I would never ever buy a Rolex. They are astronomical overprized, and often worn by people with no style or gangsters.
DeleteVery true
DeleteA Submariner that has never been on a dive is like a Brooks Brothers OCBD that has never been worn in a polo match.
DeleteWatches are "status symbols" so by and large people either don't wear them, wear something cheap (Timex or Casio, maybe even digital), use a pocket watch, or if they get something nice it's not super visible or bonkers pricey. I like simple hand-wound mechanicals, the ticking is nice, not too big and fairly thin. There are many beautiful watches out there though, it's a whole world, I wouldn't just pounce on a Rolex for sure. So many beautiful watchmakers out there.
ReplyDeleteI have a Glycine Combat Automatic which looks like a Submariner but is not as thick and bulky. I currently have it with an Olive Drab NATO band. It is worn diving, to the beach, sailing, golf, to the office, and in the shower sometimes. If the brand was good enough for Pete Conrad of Gemini 5 and 11 fame, well it's good enough for me. I am complimented on it regularly. I refer to it as my poor man's Rolex.
ReplyDeleteWill
I truly don’t understand why so many comments about a Rolex on a site based on the “thing before prep”.
ReplyDeletegot a chuckle out of your comment!
DeleteMy grandfather was neither preppy nor a New England Trad. But he did practice one of what I understand to be the group's characteristics: thriftiness. Soon after getting my first raise in my first job out of college, I bought a nice Bulova. I eagerly showed it to him, explaining all the features and how the cost was worth it. He listened patiently and replied, "Son, any man who spends more on a watch than a good Timex costs is a damn fool with his money." Now, I would not presume to tell anyone how to spend their money. And, on occasion, I will be in a nice store and look at the Tag Heuers, Breitlings, or Omegas and think to myself 'one of those would be nice to have." But then, I hear a voice in my ear whispering "Son...." and I check my 20 year old Timex bought for $30, smile and walk away.
ReplyDeleteMy (unnamed, high-end) watch croaked the day I was heading to Paris 12 years ago, so I stopped in a Cambridge Target and bought a Timex that I’ve worn every day since. I’ve had to change the battery only twice. The money I might have spent on something snazzier I’ve given to MGH and the MFA.
DeleteI think a five digit explorer I is the ultimate prep watch historic utility and subtle refinement.
ReplyDeleteI agree with Anon 6/15 12:20. I never wear a watch. But somehow I always seem to know what time it is, maybe not - exactly - but darn close. Perhaps it’s something that becomes instinctive as the years go by (I’m 74). Not wearing a watch also means there’s one less thing I have to keep track of. This saves time and mental energy. Those are two things that are more precious as I age.
ReplyDeleteRolex watches have long been regarded as a universal form of currency by sailors and travelers around the world. In the days before electronic banking you could always sell your Rolex anywhere in the world if you needed emergency funds. Try that with a Timex or a $10.00 Walmart watch.
ReplyDeleteI don't have to try because of the aforementioned electronic banking. That said, I'd never wear my dad's 50-year-old GMT Master overseas because thieves target people wearing expensive watches. On the road, my Timex might be a smarter choice than my Rolex.
Delete