A reader question::
Dear Editor:
What are some recommendations for a good leather belt? I am looking for a bridle belt that can be worn both professionally and casually, that is 1” or 1.25” wide, and most importantly that is durable without warping quickly? I have tried the J. Press calfskin belt, but it has warped and shows significant wear after just a year or two. Does anyone have experience with Cellar Leather or Tim Hardy belts? Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Yours Sincerely,
I have had good luck with the plain leather belts made in Essex CT by Leather Man Ltd.
ReplyDeleteMuffy, why do you torture me so? One after another of irresistible invitations to teach, enlighten and, perhaps if I am very lucky, to scold those unwashed readers who simply don't get it. As I have attempted to teach many times, you are either True Prep, or you are not. If you are, you would not need to ask about leather belts because you would already own, or that is, possess, the perfect Prep belt. It would have been sourced by Chipp, NYC in the 60s by your father or uncle. Bridle leather from England finished in Italy, it will have been worn by at least three generations before you cinch it up. Most importantly of all, it will be no larger than size 34. Anyone needing a larger size is not True Prep. They are, in a word, unrefined or, in another word, overelaborate. In all events, this belt may only be worn with khakis. Pants, not shorts. These khakis should themselves of course been sourced by an ancestor and passed down with a patina similar to a sunset in Tuscany (trust me). No True Prep would dare where this belt with a suit, because one does not wear brown belts with gray flannel, chalk stripe, three button suits purchased at the Andover in 1981. Ever. So, if you are unable to find an aging but perfect belt from Chipp, try Langrocks in Princeton. It should not be a caution that Mr. Langrock closed his store in 1975. There are plenty of Princeton grads with closets filled with Langrock clothing; some of them may be a distant relative, if you are lucky, although, as a graduate of a better school located in New Haven, it would not surprise me if these Tigers refused to assist you. If anyone has any other suggestions for our dear reader, you are wrong. It's alright, we are all wrong occasionally, although when I am wrong it usually is discussed in the NYT.
ReplyDeleteYou're on a roll lately, Ferd. Haha.
DeleteMr. Frank may have closed his shop on Nassau Street in 1975, but Langrock continued to exist as a boutique within the Princeton U Store on University Place well into the 90s. It was a much smaller selection of course, and the tailored clothing was mostly models for a made-to-measure service, but you could still get belts, ties, shirts, and other furnishings there until he finally retired. I was told that the reason Langrock closed was that his son wasn’t interested in taking over the business and had become a lawyer.
DeleteI have a Tim Hardy black Sedgwick bridle leather belt and a Jasper Highet made using medium brown J&J Bakers of Colyton oak bark tanned bridle leather, and a bunch of Equus from before they went bust. The Hardy and Highet are more basic and rustic in design than Equus, all very well made. I'd give Jasper Highet an edge in quality, e.g. the burnishing of the edges, but not by much.
ReplyDeleteI would suggest the belt Brooks Bros sold as their dress belt for decades prior to the year 2000: the Trafalgar cortina leather dress belt. It used to come in black, brown and cordovan colors. Indestructible, never known to warp or show much wear. It was the standard by which others were judged.
ReplyDeletePS: How do we know that's the real Ferd and not a Ferd Pretender?
Pretender? I was wondering the same thing. I thought he was ... Or could it really just be a new AI version of the beloved Ferdster?
DeleteI think not, because nobody ever reached the apotheosis of cynicism, and wonderful sarcasm like him. And so we should all welcome him back to delight us with his angry wit that has so enchanted the followers of this Blog for such a long time.
Robert, I would not have credited your post with more than a passing glance had you not mentioned angry wit. My Man! You have unlocked the enigma, the cypher of my existence. And, unlike Turing, you didn't have to invent a device or terminate your life. Bravo. And to reward you, permit me to share the underlying reason for my wrath. It is the presence of other people. I have decided to become a 21st Century Cirquitor. In the Middle Ages, the abbots of prominent monasteries found themselves unable to maintain order and piety among the hundreds of monks who flocked to their orders, most of whom, if not all of whom, were there for the food and shelter rather than the service of God. One abbot, a Frenchman named Auclair, was fortunate to have among his flock a monk named Bernard who was exceptionally pious and even more obedient. Auclair appointed him the priory's Cirquitor, or 'watchman'. Bernard's job was simple. He watched the other monks day in and day out and, as shérif, judge, jury and executioner determined punishments and chastisements on his whim. I say whim because Berard would, on some days, behead a fellow monk who stole food, while on other days simply admonish a fellow prelate for the same offense. It was the Cirquitor's license to not only apprehend but also with vagary sort out discipline. Now that is a job to aspire to, especially on this, the most prosaic of Blogs on Earth. And so, I discern, I contemplate and I upbraid Muffy's disciples with megrim, caprice and, every eclipse or so, charm. It is not my fault that all of you have not a scintilla of understanding my wit (other than you, dearest Robert). Indeed, it is a blessing they do not, as such dearth of impression only serves to prove my point. So, dear Robert, since the eclipse has occurred, you are bestowed my blessing. The rest of you, watch your back.
DeleteI feel like I just won the Nobel Prize. Thank you.
DeleteTrafalgar is excellent.
DeleteRobert, I am deeply sorry. The Nobel goes to peacemakers. You not only have failed to make me amicable, you have emboldened me. I can't wait until Muffie asks her readers about anything Southern.
DeleteCellar Leather on Cape Cod is a great source!
ReplyDeleteCol. Littleton
DeleteLeather goods like shoes, boots and belts form to the person wearing them - that’s part of the beauty of good leather. In that respect, any good leather product won’t remain pristine-looking, and belts may not lay flat when hanging on a hook. However, they look fine when wearing them.
ReplyDeleteRancourt chromexel leather belts are very good. Their shell cordovan belts were outstanding, but they no longer offer them. Allen Edmonds has shell cordovan belts for a fair price. If you climb the ladder price-wise, Ralph Lauren purple label calfskin and Alden shell cordovan belts run about $350 each. They’re high quality.
This isn’t what you asked about, but I feel compelled to mention Smathers & Branson needlepoint belts. They’re more casual; they’re fun, and excellent quality.
I recommend the leather belts from Cordings.
ReplyDeleteThey offer a Calf Grain Reversible (i.e. two for one) belt in a variety of color combinations, along with some Classic English Bridle Belts (their Tan Newmarket Bridle Belt is exceptionally nice.)
https://www.cordings.co.uk/us/brown-green-calf-grain-reversible-belt.html
https://www.cordings.co.uk/us/black-classic-english-made-bridle-belt.html
https://www.cordings.co.uk/us/tan-newmarket-bridle-belt.html
Trafalgar Belts & Straps from website. Got straps from them, Cortina Leather Burgundy & Crocodile Chestnut . By the way, my buckles are placed on the wearer's right so they lay flat with the end tip on the right. The issue is the trouser button, there is less of a bump . This was explained to me by a haberdasher in 1976. Leatherman motif belts accommodate my request on this .
ReplyDeleteA few years ago, I replaced a Brooks Brothers cordovan belt from the 1980s (it finally fell apart) with an Alden cordovan. The Alden belt is well made and will probably outlive me.
ReplyDeleteLeatherman makes wonderful leather belts.
ReplyDeleteIt's probably not bridle leather, but I've worn an L. L. Bean "Men's Chino Belt" since 2014, according to my order history. They seem to have a "Dress" version of it too. Looking down at my waist, it seems a little worn. I may need to order another in a few years.
ReplyDeleteI can highly recommend the custom work of leathersmith Jeff Taylor of Cellar Leather on Cape Cod. He has a small shop in downtown Hyannis but his belts are easily ordered online. I especially love his brass mollusk belt buckles.
ReplyDeleteFind a local saddler and get them to make you a bespoke belt out of bridle leather.
ReplyDeleteTory Leather makes bridle leather belts and they last FOREVER. I've worn mine almost every day for about 15 years and it's still going strong.
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone in this community wear braces/suspenders? Wearing pants is so, so, much more comfortable if they are held up with braces rather than a belt. There is really no comparison. One never thinks about hitching up your pants or tucking back in a shirt when wearing braces. Try it. You’ll convert.
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely. Trousers should hang from the shoulders and not the waist (with a suit or sports jacket and trousers)
DeleteAnother braces believer here. Trousers can also hang comfortably over a shirt and under a sweater. Anon 7:12 is right. Comfort-wise braces win every time. There truly is no comparison.
DeleteYes you are absolutely right
DeleteFinally switching to braces usually brings on one of those “what have I been waiting for” moments. It did for me.
DeleteCellar Leather!
ReplyDeleteThe best belts are Bridal Leather based on my experience. Tjmataa answered the inquiry. That said, agree Braces are the most comfortable in any circumstance
ReplyDeleteand only thing one should wear with a suit.
Bridle, vs. Bridal?
DeleteTry the Tack Room, a small shop in Virginia horse country. Same bridle leather shell belts as my Orvis and Bean ones and much cheaper. Incidentally, a discussion on belts should always include some navel gazing about why proper sizing ever follows anything other than a waist size.
ReplyDeleteMy belts, other than a needlepointed one made by a loved one, are from Leather Man, Everlasting (on Etsy), and O'Connell's (Alden). All three sources are quite solid.
ReplyDeleteThere is a simple three-word answer to this question: Full grain leather. The buckle, if brass, should be sold brass, not brass plated.
ReplyDeleteAs a few have already commented, you can't beat a good genuine shell cordovan belt. They are not inexpensive, and they can be a challenge to find. I understand that law enforcement such as Secret Service and FBI who wear suits while on duty wear a substantial but dressy looking shell cordovan belt. They carry a firearm while on duty, and the cordovan belt is substantial enough to support that carry.
ReplyDeleteHave had my polo belt from Sid Mashburn for a year and it's holding up nicely. Could be up your alley. Think they were made from bridle leather at one time, but may not be now.
ReplyDeleteI have a Wiley Brothers belt that is about 15 years old and is in great condition, but after a quick look on Google, I fear they are no longer in business. Sid Mashburn is a great source.
ReplyDeleteIf the Tim Hardy you refer to is from Worcestershire over here l’ve owned one for about 8 years It’s as good now as the day it arrived in the post It’s worn virtually everyday
ReplyDeleteI buy my belts at the tack shop -- any tack shop really. As Sarah mentioned, Tory makes the best belts.
ReplyDelete