A reader question:
Dear Editor,
I am looking for recommendations for a moderately priced OCBD to wear casually or underneath a sweater. I have some from Mercer that I love but they are just “too much shirt” to be worn like this. Thank you.
Friday, July 7, 2023
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The OCBDs from J. Press are at a slightly lower price point and occasionally go on sale. Also, they are made in the good ol' USA! :)
ReplyDeleteI would recommend New England Shirt Company: https://newenglandshirtco.com/collections/shop-the-oxford/products/bristol-button-down-oxford-sport-shirt-100?variant=42931185713351 I know it's Alpha sizing, but they fit me well and they're made in Fall River MA
ReplyDeleteYears ago there was a factory on Cape Cod that made sweaters. It’s no longer in its original location. Does anyone know if it relocated or simply went out of business? They were a nice weight summer sweater and we still have one purchased over 40 years ago. Thanks!
DeleteAfter the end of my favorite Sero men's shirts, I found most US-made OCBDs to be too heavy for West Coast wear. Despite being an offshore product, I do recommend the IZOD "Men's Classic Fit Long Sleeve" shirt for consideration in warmer climes. These shirts are all cotton, keep their shape well on washing, are not slim nor tapered, yet less "generous" than classic Brooks Brothers shirts. The selection and quality are superior to any others in their price range.
ReplyDeleteConsider skipping the oxford cloth and give gingham or broadcloth BDs a go. Andover, O'Connell's, and Press have good offerings.
ReplyDeleteLL Bean makes a decent OCBD, heavy cloth, good collar roll. The price is up to $65, the last one I bought was $40.
ReplyDeleteTJ Max. Remarkable finds there. To score, visit in person & be diligent as per my wife. Have a killer Polo Pink OCBD from them now faded to the perfect patina. Bought their stock, no complaints. Consider, high end thrift stores or Charity Stores run by Blue Hair Doyens or Confederate Valkyries. Better be careful about that collar roll measurement length to pull off this move. Yeah, I own J. Press & Mercer...would not burn money on this sweater kit wardrobe.
ReplyDeleteBy "too much shirt" do you mean it is too hefty, too voluminous, or too much to spend for something that will be covered by a sweater? A Mercer OCBD could conceivably be any or all.
ReplyDeleteThe L.L.Bean OCBD shirt is a "Wrinkle-Free Classic Oxford Cloth Shirt," which seems oxmoronic. A shirt can be wrinkle-free or classic, but not both. The listing on the Bean website states that this shirt has a "[g]entle collar roll," but the collar points seem to be shorter than most readers of SWNE would prefer. Doesn't anyone made a decent "must iron" 100 percent cotton exact sleeve length OCBD that sells for about half of what Mercer is charging these days?
ReplyDeletePlus, does anyone iron? I honestly don’t understand the draw of wrinkled clothing, bed sheets, or linens of any variety.
DeleteNatural fibers wrinkle, it’s normal. For me at least, anything polyester or chemical treated feels like I’m wearing a plastic bag.
DeleteAbsolutely people still iron. I iron oxford, madras, linen, and broadcloth shirts, khaki pants and shorts, linen dish towels and napkins, and whatever my wife left in the basket. I have gotten good enough at folding sheets that they do not need ironing.
DeleteKamakura's Vintage Ivy ($120) - https://kamakurashirts.com/collections/vintage-ivy. Or New York Classic Fit ($110) - https://kamakurashirts.com/collections/ny-classic/products/ksm910. The company has a very good reputation.
ReplyDeleteBTW, I get an error every time when trying to comment on Safari. It's a classic Google anti-competitive tactic to promote the Chrome browser and it's appalling tracking technology.
Google has become, excuse the expression, a royal pain in the fanny.
DeleteProper Cloth sells quality made-to-measure shirts. Good fabrics and construction. Basic oxford cloth is about $95, with a very healthy variety of other fabrics that may escalate the price somewhat. Collar points on the button down are shorter than Mercer; everything else about them can be customized via a web-based interface that’s straightforward to use. I prefer Mercer but wear a number of shirts from Proper Cloth because they’re easier to order and because they cost less than half what Mercer charges.
ReplyDeleteFor a cheap OCBD, try Uniqlo (but watch out for the large collars) or Charles Tyrwhitt in the summer sale. The collar points are shorter like Gant's but will not show under a crew neck jumper.
ReplyDeleteJ. Press!
ReplyDeleteIt seems everyone has a different view of “moderately priced”?
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely spot on! To the bespoke set, Mercer is moderately priced. To the Mercer set, Press is moderately priced. To the Press set Nordstrom house brand is moderately priced. To the Nordstrom set L. L. Bean is moderately priced. To the L. L. Bean set JCP is moderately priced. To the JCP set, resale shops are moderately priced. To the resale shop set, true thrift stores are moderately priced. All untreated cotton, guaranteed to
Deletewrinkle shirts are almost impossible to find in the middle range.
In your humble opinon, at what regular or discounted price point would one find untreated cotton shirts?
DeleteThrift stores. I find OCBD shirts all the time.
ReplyDeleteAlso resale shops. Guys hitting retirement are bringing in loads of traditional stuff on consignment.
DeleteEbay
ReplyDeleteI look for old Brooks at the local Goodwill. I've found so many.
ReplyDelete