Dear Muffy,
May I ask the community a question. Bearing in mind the fondness for some things British, have many of the U.S. readers visited the U.K.? If so where and what were their impressions?
Kind regards.
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Muffy Aldrich
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In March of 1995 my wife and I rented a car and 'circumnavigated' Scotland anticlockwise from Aberdeen including taking the ferry to The Orkneys to see The Ring of Brognar stone circles, Scapa Flow, The Hoy and watch sweaters the islands are famous for knitted. Bought one of course. It was fabulous to walk the countryside unimpeded everywhere, especially on the famous golf courses. We took our time driving from John O' Groats along the northern coast to the isolated Cape Wrath, down the west coast (so much like Maine but with sandy beaches), out to the Hebrides, fly fishing, finally admiring Ben Nevis and the Lochs before flying home. It was bit chilly but nonetheless a spectacular trip at a time of year when we seemed to be the only people on the road. My wife enjoyed the map work, deciding what side roads to explore and coastlines to check out every chance. We gave the many distilleries a miss but we're just not drinkers. The pubs were great though and the people so surprised to see us at that time of year, so welcoming and such fun. Enjoy it if you can.
ReplyDeleteWe visited the U.K. several years ago. We spent the first week in London, then drove "To the North," stopping at Windsor, Stonehenge, somewhere near Carlisle, and winding up in Edinburgh. We also drove most of the length along Hadrian's Wall. My wife made a point of visiting Sulgrave Manor, near Banbury, because she is a Washington family descendant. While visiting there, we stayed in the village of Cropredy, having just missed the music festival there. We were surprised to learn about the canal network in the U.K., which runs through Cropredy. We also visited Stratford-upon-Avon for an afternoon. London has so many things of interest. We even did a tour of Buckingham palace. My son-in-law's grandmother a Londoner.
ReplyDeleteWe caught the festival in Edinburgh and saw the tattoo at the castle, which we also toured during the day. While in Edinburgh, we stayed across the bridge in Dunfermline, in the Kingdom of Fife, as a friend used to call it. There were many interesting things to see there, too. There were a number of other things we wanted to see, such one of the hillside chalk figures in England. I would have liked to see the "Inch of Perth," that also being the name of a Scottish dance.
It's difficult to make more comments than that but it was a wonderful trip. The weather was good the whole time, I only got lost once near Carlisle, I managed driving on the left with a six-speed manual gearbox (the first hundred yards were tricky), and we minded the gap. I had a lot of trouble with the language, though.
We've been to Paris, too, and I've also been to Oklahoma.
I have traveled fairly extensively in the UK. Highlights included winter in a 12th century Scottish house, surrounded by huge, shaggy cows and a very cold trout stream. It was a few miles to the nearest extremely small town. Another highlight was my time in Bangor. I love that town, the mountain, and Anglesey. Of course bigger places like London, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Dublin have their wonders, too. One snowy night I was on a train, making my way from Inverness back to London for my birthday. A lone piper, snow flakes dusting him and his bagpipes, was sending a friend off from Perth in the dead of night.
ReplyDeleteOh Vecchio, including Dublin in a list of places to visit in the UK. It is the first time I have ever disagreed with you in the comments of this blog!
DeleteAre you disagreeing with its inclusion in the U.K., or do you have a different point to make, eventually?
DeleteI apologize for including Dublin in a manner with unintended implications.
DeleteHow did such a lovely, lyrical, well-written comment by Vecchio turn into troll-bait that would make him feel the need to apologize?
DeleteBangor in North Wales is a complete dump. You could have mentioned the mountain -Snowdon or Llandudno and Conway (with its castle) on the coast. Even Portmeirion or Beaumaris on Anglesey but not Bangor.
DeleteIt might not be as lovely as some, but I enjoyed my time there and the things surrounding it. Adios.
DeleteAnonymous 7.04 a.m. I refer you to the comment above yours.
DeleteI pondered long layering on another comment, but now that the cocktail hour has arrived, my inhibitions have abated. One of the delights of SWNE has been the lack of snark and mean spiritedness. I doubt these would rise to such levels on other fora, but here they seem different. Recently I have been whittling down my online presence. I think I shall do so here, to. Ciao!
DeleteVecchio Vespa, please don't. You are one of the best and most interesting commentators.
DeleteI echo tjmataa, please don't leave us, Vecchio Vespa. I've only commented once or twice in all the years I've been reading this blog, but I always enjoy reading your comments.
DeleteWe especially love London, Oxford, the Cotswolds, Yorkshire, and Aberystwyth. Most everyone we encountered was kind and honest.
ReplyDelete-JM, VA
West coast of Scotland, but also make a stop in Edinburgh.
ReplyDeleteIt really does depend on your interests and how much time you have. Everywhere is steeped in history. You might prefer smaller cities and towns to larger metropolitan areas like London. However, there are amazing places to see in London, I am very fond of Bristol and Bath, and Scotland is absolutely beautiful. Each area has its own landscape and culture. The time of year does make a difference and whether or not you want to drive, fly or take the train to travel around.
ReplyDeleteMany areas and towns, but Bath, Salisbury, and Winchester stand out in my mind.
ReplyDeleteKind Regards,
Heinz-Ulrich
UK is where in the men's clothing of department stores Masonic costumes are taken fir granted. A German import such as Rudolf Steiner's Anthroposophy is controlled and misinterpreted and sold by Eastern European immigrants who Anglicize their names etc because they aren't allowed into proper British lodges.
ReplyDeleteI’ll be traveling to London next month for the coronation. Staying at Claridges and then to the country for a dinner at L’Enclume. My aunt was from Daventry, Northamptonshire. I drove all over Scotland, Bath and the Cotswolds as a young man visiting them. This will be my first trip back in over 25 years, I think my favorite place is the Eagle and Child pub in Oxford, but of course I am a big C.S. Lewis fan.
ReplyDeleteWe just returned from a weeks stay at Claridges. Absolutely top notch! Highly recommend.
DeleteGood on you for scoring a room at Claridge's for the coronation -- you must know people in high places. I think it's the best hotel in England. There are so many hotels that aspire to high standards of luxury but aren't able to execute or to get the details right. I have stayed there only twice but let me tell you something I will always remember. When I unpacked my suitcase, I put a novel I was reading on the night table. The next day I found that the maid had placed a bookmark on top of the book. What a nice touch that was.
DeleteMy oldest and dearest friend is on the managment team at Claridges. We ocassionaly go down for afternoon tea. Luckily with friends in high places we don't have to go on the long waiting for a table!
Delete^ How nice for you. BTW despite my airy comment about best hotel in England, I have not stayed at either Browns or the Connaught. Have you stayed there and what has been your experience?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI've always stayed at the Savoy. Tops in my book.
DeleteThe series "Inside Claridge's" available on BritBox is really wonderful.
Delete@Emily - started it last night - watched 2 of the 3 episodes - it's terrific!
DeleteThe Lake District is beautiful if you enjoy walking!
ReplyDeleteIt is packed with tourists in the warmer months. If you love massive traffic jams and long queues, you will love the Lake District.
DeleteWhen we visited Monet's house in Giverny, one of the guides said that the place would be flooded with Japanese tourists in a little while. I thought that was a very unfair statement and anyway, that didn't happen. Don't remember seeing any Japanese tourists in the U.K. either.
DeleteLake District
ReplyDeleteMy first visit to the Scottish Highlands triggered an incredibly strong "wait, I've been here before" reaction that I've never felt before or since with my travels. Genetic memory is a heck of a thing.
ReplyDeleteBut all in all I love Britain. I haven't visited Northern Ireland (yet) but my time spent in England, Wales, and Scotland is NEVER wasted. If you're a reader please don't miss Hay-on-Wye and bring an extra suitcase for your purchases. No joke. I love Edinburgh, Inverness, the Wirral area (Liverpool), any and all. One of my favorite things to do is just drive. Stopping for a nice cold pint of the local cider (the scrumpier the better - looking at you Scrumpy Jack) and then setting off again just seems to fill whatever empty British pontoon with which I have been bestowed in life. All in all we enjoy strongly unplanned itineraries, and prefer the offseason for traveling as we enjoy being bundled up in Britain.
During the pandemic and even now we've come to appreciate walking tours on YouTube. "Dave's Walks" is one that we especially enjoy as his travels take him both by foot and by car all over England. We get to feed a little wanderlust by these walking tours. Not a British one but "Prowalk Tours" is also one we enjoy.
Hope this helps!
- hrplo
We love the Lake District, but may be a bit biased because that’s where my husband is from. Whatever you do, get out of London and in to the countryside. If you have a National Trust pass (Royal Oak for Americans) and their guidebook, that’s all you’ll need to plan a trip to the UK.
ReplyDeleteDespite several trips over the years to the UK I’ve never made it to County Cheshire. There my father’s family roots are traceable back to the 1200’s. It would be good to go. Amazing are the Roman ruins in Edinburgh. Don’t miss them. Back in 1972, as a college student, I made a visit to a branch of the family living not too far from Ramsgate where I caught the fast ferry to Europe. I was most impressed that their address, and I can remember it to this day, had no numbers attached to it. This I learned is not unusual. The address was; Inniscorrig, North Foreland, Broadstairs, Kent. We love to visit England. But in the past 20 years we have travelled far more often to the Dolomites from where my mother’s family hails. We hike, admire the wildflowers, and drink artisanal grappa de troie. And we eat Piave, “the world’s best table cheese.” If you go, however, avoid the pizza. It’s not worth it. You’ll find better closer to home. Remember, thank you, “pizza was born in Italy, but it emigrated to New Haven.”
ReplyDeleteThe list is endless! And all a joy to behold!
ReplyDeleteI live in England and as mentioned by others, it depends when you are going and what you are interested in. If you plan to drive while here, be aware that the roads tend to be very crowded and the place is seriously cameraed up so you need to pay close attention to your speed. Try to travel outside of the U.K. school holiday periods if you can. You will find accommodation is cheaper and the road congestion somewhat lighter. London is always fun, but if possible, try to get past the Watford Gap and see the rest of the country. North, the Cotswolds are stunning as is the Lake District. South, drive along the coast roads through Dorset (a personal favourite) and Devon.
ReplyDeleteAnd if you want to find out whether you can drive anywhere, try driving in Swindon.
DeleteBetter still - avoid Swindon!
DeleteWe did not drive in London during our first week in the U.K. but we did for the second week. I don't recall the roads being especially crowded at all. But that's relative. I live in the Washington, D.C. area. I managed pretty well driving on the left, too, and with a manual gearbox. But six speeds was more than I knew what to do with.
DeleteMy family and I lived in London for four years, 2013-17. The wonders and comforts of the capital are well-known and too numerous to list. Of our trips out of town, we very much enjoyed staying at the Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath, the Grove in Hertfordshire and the Benleva Hotel near Loch Ness.
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely loved the Royal Crescent!
DeleteLondon. Walk. Eat fish.
ReplyDeleteAnd Indian food!
DeleteKedgeree
DeleteHaving lived in Oxford, I recommend it, but not entirely for the reasons you'd expect. Yes, by all means see the colleges and museums. But make sure you also see as much of the city as you can. Not for nothing did Oxford rank 31st in the "Crap Towns" book that rated the fifty worst towns in the UK. The sunsets are so beautiful because Oxford--a grubby old industrial city that happens to have bits and pieces of a university scattered all over it--is one of the most polluted areas in the UK. Run-down neighborhoods populated by drunks and crazed rappers are not exactly the stuff of "Brideshead Revisited" and are the environment in which many students and staff live for at least part of their time in Oxford. The contrast between the myth and the reality of Oxford is most educational. Make sure you use local mass transit as much as possible so as to get the full flavor and scent of the place.
ReplyDeleteThe infamous Blackbird Leys estate! I had to do some work for a big car parts firm near that part of town. It never took long and it left me the rest of the day to look around the museums and pubs before heading home. You are right it’s not all Brideshead and Inspector Morse. Cambridge is a much nicer town.
DeleteAnonymous, one of the Morse novels contained a scathing description of precisely the part of town I lived in. It sort of makes a man proud. I lived on the Cowley Road, for a year, then hopped over a couple of blocks to the Iffley Road, just across from the famous running track. Much better there.
DeleteLove this question. As a student at the University of London in the late sixties and an occasional visitor in the late seventies and early nineties, I realize my recommendations may be dated. Yet the places I visited have left indelible memories. Among my favorites are the great cathedral towns of Lincoln, York and Durham. One of my best memories is of having a room in the White Hart Inn facing Lincoln Cathedral illuminated at night it all its stunning glory. The heft of the great Romanesque columns of Durham Cathedral perched on a hill over looking the River Wear is another cherished memory. I recommend meandering trips through the Cotswolds hopefully still as timeless as ever. The honey colored stone buildings in Castle Coombe, Broadway and Chipping Norton are beautiful. A drive along the north Devon coast is well worth it for the stunning views of the sea. A drive around the Isle of Skye is super too. Winchester Cathedral has such an ancient character that it is not to be missed. There are so many places to indulge your wanderlust, in walking paths all over everywhere, in ancient small village pubs, in fish and chips shops, in Indian restaurants, in as mentioned here the numerous bookstores of Hay-on-Wye and in the lovely Lake District. I was there in late September and was thrilled to visit the stomping grounds of Arthur Ransome's Swallows and Amazons on Coniston Water. Lucky you! I don't envy you trying to pick and chose.
ReplyDeleteWhenever I travel I try to take the public transit. The Tube is an excellent way to get around London and it’s a great way to really see the city and “rub shoulders” with the locals.
ReplyDeleteI loved Yorkshire, it's such a beautiful area. Have enjoyed the UK on every visit and it's a wonderful place if you love history. Salisbury and the surrounding area is not only beautiful but very interesting too. The only area we haven't traveled into is the south coastal areas--next time! I want to see Cornwall for sure.
ReplyDeleteIf I may make a suggestion - if you're considering a visit - I'd suggest that you just pick a spot that resonates with you, then bunker down for a week or so and spend that time seeing the best of the local. More than a week? Pick another spot and move on. You won't see Britain writ large, but you'll end up owning a little corner of it in your heart.
ReplyDeleteIf you can narrow this down to a county or two, you'll get some specific suggestions here that can really help.
As a native, I enjoy reading the perspectives of visitors from overseas. It's gratifying to know that so many SWNE contributors have enjoyed their visits. I notice several references to Hay-on-Wye. Could I suggest expanding this to a wider exploration of the border country between England and Wales. If you're a keen hiker, Offa's Dyke offers fabulous walking across some of the finest scenery in these isles, punctuated by delightful market towns. There are some great pubs as well!
ReplyDeleteMy great aunt was Dame of Sark. I've never been but my sister and mother did. Our family comes from (way back in time) the town of Great(er?) Tew int he Cotswolds. My brother and nephew have been there. We've been to Bath, Bristol, the southwest coastal towns and harbors along The Channel. Nottingham and Newcastle have been others as well as Yorkshire. Loved playing golf until nearly midnight with the Geordies.
ReplyDeleteStonehenge - and go for the early morning/evening tour within the stone circle itself. You actually get to be IN the circle outside of open hours, instead of gazing upon it from a walkway forty feet away with the rest of the gogglers. Incredible experience.
ReplyDeleteIf you're interested in military history, definitely visit the Imperial War Museum in London and its branch at Duxford Airfield north toward Cambridge. I will never forget the last hangar at Duxford.
ReplyDeleteDidn't visit the Imperial War Museum. Instead, I visited the National Army Museum in Chelsea, next to the Royal Hospital Chelsea. It was close to walk from where we were staying in South Kensington. Don't remember the name of the hotel where we stayed but it was across the intersection from the South Kensington underground station. While I was at the museum, my wife and daughter went to Harrods.
DeleteIf you go to the Cotswolds you may well do the three B's, Broadway, Burford and Bibury. I'd like to offer a fourth, a village called Barnsley between Bibury and Cirencester. William Morris was impressed by the simplicity and austerity of the Cotswolds and in an area which has often been over improved it still retains a lot of that trait.
ReplyDeleteJune 2000. Landed at Heathrow in preparation for a 30 day short-time stint as a crew member on Mercy Ships’ MV Anastasis hospital ship. Slept on a bench in the airport to 3 hours with my duffle strap wrapped around my arm. Rode the tube to the ship which was berthed at Canary Wharf. The next day the ship had to be empty so they could weigh it and, coincidentally, The Championships (i.e., Wimbledon tennis) had just begun. So, on the tube again to Wimbledon and stood in line for 2 hours to get a grounds pass. Walked around like I had just arrived in an earthly heaven. Saw Sampras, that year’s champ, practice on an outside court, standing just several feet from me. Sat on the hill outside Court 1 and watched a while on the big screen. Then it rained. After, many people had left and their tickets were avail for purchase. Got a Centre Court for about 2 pounds and watched a match. The inside of Centre Court is majestic, old, perfect. The next day the ship sailed up to New Castle upon Tyne and we began a month’s outreach. Walked to town - maybe 2 miles - to buy necessities and, each evening, to a pub to drink coffee and watch more tennis on television. An amazing time in my life.
ReplyDeleteIt’s Newcastle - all one word. At least you did not mention the brown ale now brewed in Holland.
DeleteI lived there for 13 years after spending university and grad school on the east coast. I’m from coastal California, am married to a Brit and have two 1/2 Brit, 1/2 American boys. The prevalence of school uniforms there (which strike me as very similar to and connected with preppy and trad fashion but of cheaper quality- lots of nasty polyester cardigans!) make most Brit children (and adults who wear uniforms or suits at work) more likely to shun that style while “off-duty” and focus on pop culture and fast fashion. I admit, I was kind of disappointed by this. In America, the preppy/ trad fashion is more of an all-encompassing life style for life. Trad stuff in England is considered either stuffy and old fashion or very “posh” and not for the masses.
ReplyDelete