Photo by Salt Water New England

Tuesday, December 22, 2020

Reader Question: Cotton Twill Trousers, Color and Fit?

 

Dear Editor,

What do you and your readers feel are the correct shades of khaki and British Tan for men’s trousers? And who do you and your readers believe makes the best, classic fitting, cotton twill trousers in the “correct” colors? 

Many thanks for the consideration and insight!


 

27 comments:

  1. I prefer Bills M2 model in khaki. Lighter stone/cement color is also good-looking esp. for warmer months. But the darker British tan/British khaki color I find to be ugly and not traditional (from an American perspective). I have heard Jack Donnelly's are good and Charleston Khakis (made by Berle) are a fine option too. That said, they're only khakis -- don't overthink it. Best and longest lived pair I ever had were from the Gap in the 1990s.

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  2. Duck Head khakis are always a go-to. Quality.

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    1. Why is it that all of my OBCD and khakis were so soft? We wore them 7 days a week in Boarding School. My wife fashions pillows and sweaters for the kids from my school year articles. Just can't find the fabric anymore. I'd give anything to have that laundry pick-up of great warm smelling soft cotton. Today, it appears as all poly and China product - - less than desirable -- and the same price.

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  3. I have always liked the colors and hefty fabric of the Orvis Ultimates, but right now I am wearing O'Connell's, and they are awfully well made and a good fit for me. I just got a pair of Berle flannels and like them so much I can definitely see trying their khakis.

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    1. Seconded. My preference is for the flat front rather than pleats. Some may prefer the trim fits. The Ultimates are even better value in Orvis's regular multi-buy offers. Uniqlo's vintage regular fit chinos are excellent value for those on a budget or want a cheaper pair for golfing, gardening etc.

      I also have a few pairs Cordings flat front chinos that I've bought in the bi-annual "buy one, get one half price, trousers promotions. The website recommends dry cleaning but they wash fine. They are more dressy and I wear them in my club and at social events.

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  4. I also prefer the lighter color (I call it "sand") over the darker khaki. But I live in Atlanta so lighter seems preferable in hot weather.

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  5. Can't say enough good things about Jack Donnelly's khakis. I find the M1 fit to be the most representative of the classic American khaki style.

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    1. I agree 100%, recently order two pairs and cannot be happier with my purchase. I used to be a Bills M1 man but no more.

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  6. For me, it's Bills Khakis in M2P Khaki not British Khaki. Cuffed. It makes life simple to have a go-to uniform along with OCBD. Many other fine brands as mentioned.

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  7. It took me a while to realize that what was meant by "cotton twill trousers" was what we usually call "khakis" or "chinos".
    I've always been pleased with those available from L.L. Bean and Lands' End and have never felt the need to look elsewhere. As far as color goes: not too light and not too dark.

    Merry Christmas to one and all.

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  8. Here's a Western precinct reporting: I wore them all over the years - Lands' End, Polo, Duck Head, L.L. Bean, Sears Fieldmaster. These days my everyday "chinos" are Levi's 513s in various colors, several khaki and black, and a couple each in gray and what Levi's calls Caraway - kind of a red mud/Carhartt Brown color.

    For dressier chinos Miller Ranch Stockman flat front khakis are great. The hip pockets have flaps and they have ranger belt loops. There are two models, one with front pockets more like jeans, the other with on-seam front pockets.

    Filson offers some nice khakis also under various weights the call Double Tin, Single Tin, Old Tin, and Dry Tin.

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  9. Jack Donnelly's M1 truly fit the bill! Thanks so very much for everything you do for us all year long! Happy Holiday's to all!

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  10. Depending on the situation... Mountain Khakis, even Carhartt... darker khaki shade in winter, lighter in summer...

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  11. Long rise construction, fit, weight....M 1 Bill's, Old Navy, Saks, B2, Polo, Dickies Original, Old Duckheads ...all varying shades...British Tan is awkward ,only 1 pair....starched with a knife edge crease...lot of old stuff

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  12. Castaway Nantucket are my favorite.

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  13. Independent of brand, I prefer cotton that hasn't been treated for wrinkling and that khakis are 100% cotton, not a blend.

    I prefer less formal for khakis - when I need to look more put together, I'm wearing wool dress trousers with a crease. Patagonia four canyons twill pants, 7.4 oz. cotton. I have been wearing 3 pair of a predecessor version of them for years. they wear extremely well and soften with age.

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  14. LLBean Double L Chinos are an exceptional value. Have purchased numerous pairs throughout the years and truth be told I have a few pairs I purchased in late 90s I were on weekends and for outdoor work. Even have three pairs flannel lined for winter. Being a teacher, they get their wear all day long. Great product!! My sons however favor Bills Ks, of course if dad wears LL Bean Chinos, they must be for those older folks! Lol

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  15. Having owned many pairs of cotton twill trousers, all the shades look 'correct' to me after a while whether I am staring at them in aggregate or individually.

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  16. I prefer the 9.9 ounce Orvis Ultimate chinos in khaki or British khaki.

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  17. I agree that Orvis and LL Bean offer good chinos, with perhaps a nod to Orvis on durability. Bill's British Tan Khaki's are also very good and of a fine color.

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  18. LL Bean Lakewash and Duck Head.

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  19. Question for the community. Best fit for a short man who is not over-weight. M1 and M2 styles are too wide in the thighs? Jack Donnelly hybrids did fit until they adopted the Bill's patterns.

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    1. Good question, and you are so right.
      I have worn, at one time or another, almost all of the brands mentioned.
      I feel as though Bill's are made by Omar the Tentmaker.
      Bill's quality is good, but the cut is, in my opinion, voluminous.

      Lately, I have been giving various Carhartt khakis a try.
      I may have a new "go to." Check them out, gents.

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    2. You might check Orvis. They offer their Ultimate khakis in a trim fit.

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  20. I stand by Bill's Khakis flat front and forward pleats, especially their Bullard Field Pants and the 15th Anniversary Signature versions. As for colours, I like both Regular and British Khaki. I also like their Stone. The nice thing about their khakis is the weight -- they are comfortable and they wear like iron.

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  21. Does anyone have an opinion about Dockers?

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    1. I wore them a lot in the past and would again if my needs ran that way.

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