Tuesday, April 25, 2017

Nantucket Reds

All Photographs Are Original and From Archives
Questions about Reds typically include:

1. Are Nantucket Reds the standard, and what are alternatives? What is the difference between Nantucket Reds and Breton Reds?

2. What can be worn with Nantucket Reds?  How should you wear Reds so as not to look like a tourist or not wearing a costume?

3. Should you cuff Reds?

4. When is the correct time to wear Reds?

5. Can you wear Reds for the males in a wedding party, and if so, with what?

1. Are Nantucket Reds the standard, and what are alternatives? What is the difference between Nantucket Reds and Breton Reds?

Some sources of Reds include:
Comments:
Probably long before Murray's Nantucket Reds were invented, the red pants of choice of yachtsmen and crew, were of course the 'real' Breton Reds. Long ago I picked up a pair of these classic yachting pants while sailing the Channel Races. The pants, after a while, turned a fabulous washed out red that could only be achieved by being on the ocean (not counting the Nantucket fast ferry). They were soft, the right degree of "baggy" and worn by just about every blue water sailor. (skiwithapro) 
As to the choice of pants: Murray's are, sadly, now made in China, but at least as of last summer, they were still the heavier sailcloth. In my experience, the Chinese products fade less quickly. (The ones in the older color on the shelves at Murray's are almost certainly unsold pleated pants.) I'm a customer of the Nobby shop and enjoy shopping there, but it's simply a different product. Think cocktails, not clamming; garden parties, not golf. I own both and use them for different purposes.(Comment)
I've been asking relatives in my family how they remembered buying Nantucket Reds back in the day, and all the old timers agreed there was a time when the pants were *not* "pre washed". When you bought them, they were stiff as a board and over time they faded to the red everyone loves. There was a period when they started pre-washing the reds. Was in the late 80's? 90's? when the trend started and *everything* was "prewashed". Ever since then, the Reds have gone downhill. I've stopped buying them. I'm intrigued by the Made In America line, but, still pre washed. I guess I'm old fashioned. I like breaking clothes in. They last longer. (Wasp Decor) 
Text from the print above: 1934 Rainbow (New York Yacht Club) defeats Endeavour (Royal Yacht Squadron):
Sherman Hoyt, wearing his famous red pants, shouts "Luff! Luff, for God's sake Luff!" to Vanderbilt as Sopwith tries to stop Rainbow passing. But Vanderbilt carried straight on, and because Sopwith was slow hoisting his protest flag, he was allowed to sail away with the vital fourth race.

2. What can be worn with Nantucket Reds? 

Salt Water New England Gallery:





Nantucket Reds change color with age, salt, and sun.  Women's new canvas Nantucket Reds behind; slightly seasoned Women's poplin Nantucket Reds in front.

With Striped Button Downs and Code Flags




With Navy or White Polo Shirts

With Seersucker







With Oxford Cloth Button Downs


With Norwegian Birdseye Crew neck Sweaters


With Wool Aran Crew Neck

3. Should you cuff Reds?

If the Nantucket reds have cuffs, I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't get cuffs on them myself if I were buying a new pair. I get cuffs only on wool grey flannel trousers and on summer-weight grey wool trousers. (JR) 
I prefer them uncuffed. Easier to roll up and they dry faster. If they are just "for show" with a navy blazer, go for a cuff. It's what all the other folks do at the yacht club.  (Comment) 
 A quick answer: Strictly speaking, it's best NOT to cuff Brick/ Nantucket/Breton Reds or any other trousers ostensibly meant for shipboard wear as "turn ups" could catch on cleats and other objects. (Katahdin) 
One can see both on-island, but the clear majority are not cuffed (particularly of the thicker, sailcloth Murray's Reds). Personal preference to some degree, but I agree with the comments on cuffs being a bit more formal. I think Reds are made to be used, not just worn, so I would go without cuffs. (John) 
No cuff for reds - they are too casual, in my opinion. (Emily)  
Cuffs are original to casual pants and are almost entirely absent in men's formal pants and trousers.  (Anonymous)

4. When is the correct time to wear Reds?

While summer is traditional, many think of theirs as three season, as long as they can comfortably go sockless.

5. Can you wear Reds for the males in a wedding party, and if so, with what?

Hell, go for it. The real question is, how to match the degree of fade from one pair to another. (Mike in CT) 
How concerned are you with the costume effect? With such a sizable party it may start to look like a chorus line in "Nantucket: The Musical." If you want it to be a bit wacky and endearingly kitschy, then I say go for it. If you want something more serious then reds may not be the way to go (especially if everyone is dressed the same, uniformity may betray the casual fun of the pants). If you keep the reds, go with blue shirts with button down collars. It keeps true to the casualness look. White shirts with red(ish) pants and navy blazers may be a bit too 4th of July for some.  (FLW) 
Go for whatever speaks to you, but I would suggest not overly dismissing an appropriate level of uniformity and formality. It is often regretted down the road. Your wedding day is not just a casual dinner out at the club.  With that said, having everyone well fitted is important as well. I would take a snappy set of reds and a well tailored blazer over a poorly fitted rental tux any day. Careful with the bow ties. You don't want your wedding album to end up looking like a VV catalog shot. (Scott) 
My daughter's fiance initially wanted to wear Nantucket Reds for their April wedding. They didn't want everything to be "matchy matchy" but trying to find flower colors which went along with the faded red was a challenge that time of year. You may not have that problem with colors of fall flowers but it's also something to consider. When you really get into the nitty gritty details, the color of Nantucket Reds isn't as versatile as you may think. (sara) 
Go for it. I remember that Ted Kennedy Jr. and his family showed up for his October, 1993 Block Island wedding in blue blazers, Nantucket reds,matching ties, and topsiders (no socks). I watched as they alighted from Senator Ted Kennedy's beautiful schooner Mya, tied up in New Harbor. If the Kennedys can pull it off, so can you. (Queequeg)  


5 comments:

  1. So glad you included Ben Silver of Charleston, SC - superb merchant!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I agree, Ben Silver often has men's sports coats in styles, colors not found elsewhere in America. Especially in " Southern" materials.

      Delete
  2. What is the story/history behind Nantucket Reds?

    ReplyDelete
  3. Just so you know, the Orvis Breton Reds are no longer available.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I found a couple links to some shorts Made in USA that are labeled as Nantucket Reds.

    https://buffalojackson.com/mens-yukon-shorts-canvas-red-prep.html?gclid=CPLE8OH_qdQCFdcvgQodvOIJRw

    https://www.collaredgreens.com/search?type=&q=nantucket

    http://www.billskhakis.com/catalog/product/view/id/114407/s/southport-twill/

    Would any/all of these qualify???

    ReplyDelete