Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Quilted Jackets


When the weather moderates, one may consider moving any quilted jackets to the more easily reached hooks.  Examples include the following:

Men's Paddock Jacket from Cordings

Made in England from Austrian Loden cloth outer, the exceptional Men's Paddock Jacket from Cordings is not only a beautiful garment, but also a substantial garment, heavier and warmer (and more quiet) than your typical quilted nylon jacket. It is built for decades of use.
Olive Corduroy Trim on the Inside of the Collar
I have a quilted paddock jacket from Cordings that is made in the UK, warm and comfortable, and does not have the rubbing sound of nylon when worn. (Comment)
The sleeves are generously long, with a press stud closure and olive needlecord trim and can be turned up if needed.  hown here sized up to go over heavier sweaters/jumpers in colder weather, this Paddock Jacket was provided by Cordings.

This paddock jacket is as nicely finished on the inside - with its gold satin lining - as on the outside.

 “Loden” refers to particular wool woven in Tyrol, felted and netted through a water beating process that makes it impermeable and resistant. The netting gives the fabric a soft cloth feel, while the final phase of combing permits water droplets to slide off the fabric, rendering it as one of the first high-performance materials to ever be manufactured. 
All those technical characteristics answered the needs of shepherds and farmers living on the Alps who had to face extreme weather conditions during the winter...   The fabric went from the hands of shepherds and the mountain valleys into the House of Hapsburg when Franz Joseph I of Austria commissioned Moessmer – a Tyrolese wool enterprise – to manufacture a Loden white cape and grey coat enriched with Merino wool and cashmere...  Just take a winter stroll in Milan between Cadorna and Conciliazione and you... will no doubt chance upon an old lawyer or professor, proudly dressed in a Loden coat, scarf and wool flat cap... 
- Contemporary Standard  <http://www.contemporarystandard.com/from-shepherds-to-politics-the-history-of-loden/>

John Partridge Quilted Wool Houndstooth with Moleskin Collar and Trim 

 John Partridge Quilted Wool Houndstooth with Moleskin Collar and Trim - Made in England.





The Barbour Countryman

The Barbour Countryman Shown with Lotuff Zipper Satchel #9 in Chocolate <https://lotuffleather.com/collections/women/products/zipper-satchel-9>
When this jacket was bought at Maine's Bridgham & Cook around 1990, it was called the Countryman and was still made in England.

It was a bitter winter day on the Avenue Montaigne as Jean-Christophe Gramont walked to Dupont, the luxury product and fashion store where he works, clad in a blue quilted undercoat. 
The coat was neither Burberry nor Hermès. It was a Barbour Countryman Coat, designed as a lining for a waterproof coat made by J. Barbour & Sons for hunting foxes and shooting pheasants under the foulest English weather.
- Selling Tradition Worn Inside Out, New York Times, 1995 <http://www.nytimes.com/1995/02/21/business/worldbusiness/21iht-barbour.html>

Made in England - The third Royal Warrant was added in 1987.
The Countryman was renamed the Liddesdale in the early 1990s.  But by the time this Liddesdale in Navy was purchased from New York City's Barbour store around 2004, it was no longer made in England and had been somewhat redesigned.



The specifics of the place of origin may be less informative than the fact the company makes it so hard to find.

Original Countryman Cuff and Thicker Insulation on the Bottom, Newer Liddesdale Cuff and Thinner Insulation on the Top
Now, Liddesdales can be bought for a song, but they are not the equivalent of the original Countryman.

Other Quilts

The Barbour Eskdale Jacket for Ladies has a trimmer, more flattering fit but is much less comfortable, more restricted in the shoulders and arms, and outsourced.

This Barbour Keeperwear Quilt, Men's (bought in New York's Orvis store) has a bulkier cut, is very comfortable, allowing for movement, with knit cuffs that keep out drafts, but it is outsourced.

This often maligned Burberry version...

...was also once made in England.  (Purchased at the Darien Sport Shop)

Lotuff is a sponsor of Salt Water New England.

12 comments:

  1. Thank you for this post, it was most enjoyable!

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  2. Thank you for the tutorial on Barbour quilted jackets, Muffy. It caused me to check out my own. I have a classic Eskdale from the early 2000s, made in England, dark brownish green with traditional tartan lining and styled more like your navy Liddesdale, square shape with back side snap vents - it was purchased from a supplier in England. I would like to buy a larger size to fit over heavier sweaters and I don't know where to begin to find the same styling since I like it so much - light weight, fairly warm and easy to throw on. I also have a Burberry jacket from around the same era that is surprisingly made in the USA.

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  3. Yes, thank you for this information. Any suggestions on how/where to purchase the originals? Anyone?

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  4. I have a quilted paddock jacket from Cordings that is made in the UK, warm and comfortable, and does not have the rubbing sound of nylon when worn (the outer layer is a green tweed, and the lining is a cotton or cotton blend tattersall. I don't believe that the tweed is available anymore, but a version in loden wool is available here: https://www.cordings.co.uk/green-loden-paddock-jacket.html

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  5. I have a Liddesdale that I bought years ago from Sierra Trading Post. They used to be a good source for low priced (cheap) Barbour. There is no country of origin on any of the tags, but my guess is that it was made in Eastern European. It has that annoying 'Barbour' logo in bright yellow on the left pocket.

    Orvis currently has them on sale with the standard 'Imported' tag.
    http://www.orvis.com/p/barbour-liddesdale-jacket/735p

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  6. Some may say not quite as stylish but there is always the Filson alternative:

    https://www.filson.com/women/coats-jackets/women-s-quilted-mile-marker-11020245.html#863

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  7. Women's clothing/coats quilted and waxed also
    https://www.stewardsons.co.uk/collections/quilted-jackets

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  8. Lavenham and Mackintosh/Traditional Rainwear are two names worth considering. Both made in England and certainly on level with Barbour.

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  9. Muffy, can you talk about the temperature range for the various Barbour coats you're familiar with? Thanks.

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  10. Are the Liddesdale primarily for women?

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  11. Colonel Steve Gulyas a retired American aviator invented this type of coat after settling in Tostock England. He named the cost the ''Husky'' after the bread of dog he used to take on country walks. The brand was subsequently bought and is marketed by the Italian entrepreneur Saverio Moschillo. An internet search for ''Husky of Tostock'' will enable one to see images of the original coat

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  12. http://www.husky1965.com/en/history/

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