All-over Fair Isle Jumpers/Sweaters

Photos by Salt Water New England

For centuries, knitters in the Shetland Islands have been producing distinctively patterned jumpers.  These designs first appeared on one Shetland Island, Fair Isle.  Some say the designs evolved from Spanish patterns (a Spanish vessel was shipwrecked on Fair Isle in 1588).  Others believe, given Fair Isle is just 250 miles west of Norway, the patterns were more Scandinavian in influence. The designs spread across the Shetland Islands, where they have been more widely knit since at least the end of the 19th century

In the early 1920s, Shetland dealer James A Smith gave an (all-over) Fair Isle jumper to then Prince of Wales.  The iconic image of the fashionable Prince, later Edward VIII, wearing it playing golf instantly made all-over Fair Isle jumpers popular.

Fair Isles had many things going for them following WWI, not the last of which being the revolution in the role of women. Woman earning and spending their own money led to the demise of corsets and lace knitting.  Gender-neutral styles, such as Shetland jumpers, were in.

"The original Fair Isle sweaters [had] colors drawn from natural dyes, and the rich patterning used lavishly across the whole sweater." (New York Times, March 13, 1983).  But the all-over approach was painstaking.  To satisfy the growing demand worldwide in the following decades, authentic Shetland styles soon compromised to the significantly easier but still beautiful yoke-only approach design.  

A Sweater's Ply

A reader question:

To my SWNE colleagues,

When it comes to sweaters, I am ply-ignorant.  I see many references on this site to different ply sweaters.   Is 2-ply sufficient?  Is 4-ply better, and 6-ply better still?  Or is it just a matter of preference?  I wear sweaters a lot during the winter for everyday living and for business casual entertaining.  

Thank you! 

Some of the sweaters from this site of various plies:  Photo by Salt Water New England

4-Ply Shetland from Bosie, Made in Scotland

• Bosie Blue Mogganer <https://www.bosie.co/blue-mogganer>

Guernsey from Guernsey Woollens

Photo by Salt Water New England

• Traditional Guernsey Jumper, Unisex <https://www.guernseywoollens.com/collections/traditonal-guernsey-jumpers/products/traditional-guernsey-jumper-standard-sizes>

How Do Devold of Norway's Classic Birdseye Fisherman Sweaters Compare to L. L. Bean’s?

Photo by Salt Water New England

A thick and hearty Devold Nordsjø classic birdseye sweater in Off White, from Arthur Beale.  Pure Norwegian Wool.

• Devold Nordsjø Sweaters  <https://arthurbeale.co.uk/products/devold-nordsjo-sweater>

 A Reader Question:

Dear Muffy, 

I was curious if your readers had any experience with Devold Sweaters?  One would think that L.L. Bean had invented the Norwegian Birdseye Sweater, but there appears to be several others that had come before them.  I have been hearing a lot about Devold, based in Norway, and specifically that the quality is much higher.  I have been less than thrilled with the Bean version.  Any thoughts?

 

Shorts and Sweaters

Photo by Salt Water New England  (Repost)

Late summer, spring, and early autumn are the perfect times for the paradoxical combination of sweaters and shorts.  (And for some in Maine, year-round.) As with all of The Uniform, it enables action.  It is the perfect solution to the conditions famously described by Charles Dickens: "It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold: when it is summer in the light, and winter in the shade."

The combination is especially ideal by the water, where everything below the knees somehow, despite best efforts, becomes soaked.  And those sweaters that get dragooned into a day of activities end up with the sleeves rolled up.  

Shown here, an Extra Fine Merino Sweater, which many have called their most used and versatile sweater.   

• Cordings Navy Extrafine Merino Crew Neck Jumper, Made in Scotland <https://www.cordings.co.uk/navy-extrafine-merino-crew-neck-jumper.html>

• Mercer Classic Blue 1/8" Bengal Broadcloth Stripe, Made in the USA<http://www.mercerandsons.com/swatches_and_pricing-stripes.htm>

• Patagonia 9" Stand Up Shorts (RIP)

The Atlantic: Your Sweaters Are Garbage

 A reader sent me this article from The Atlantic.  Some quotes:

As the sheer quantity of clothing available to the average American has grown over the past few decades, everything feels at least a little bit flimsier than it used to... 

The most obvious indication of these changes is printed on a garment’s fiber-content tag. Knits used to be made entirely from natural fibers.... Now... the overwhelming majority of yarn used in mass-market knitwear is blended with some type of plastic. 

Knits made with synthetic fiber are cheaper to produce. They can be spun up in astronomical quantities to meet the sudden whims of clothing manufacturers... But by virtually every measure, synthetic fabrics are far inferior. 

- Your Sweaters Are Garbage. Even expensive sweaters have lost their hefty, lush glory. <https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2023/10/sweater-clothing-quality-natural-fibers-fast-fashion/675600/> 

 

To see all SWNE entries tagged 'sweater', click here: <https://www.saltwaternewengland.com/search/label/Sweater> 

Lambswool V-Neck Sweaters

Photos by Salt Water New England

Part of the uniform, Lambswool V-Neck Sweaters can add a bit of elegance and gravitas to an outfit.  

They can serve the role of smoothing out an otherwise unruly oxford.  For those who steer clear of Shetland sweaters for business calls, lambswool V-necks can be a useful alternative.   For women, they set off pearls nicely.  

Lambswool V-Neck Jumpers combine a Scandinavian sleekness with British soul.  They can be thrown on thoughtlessly, the highest praise.  And some prefer a more muted Navy or Grey, while others lean towards bright, dashing colors.   Sleeveless pullovers are a good option when wearing under a jacket to minimize bulk.  

While they should be on the thin side, some versions are too thin, cheaply made and unsubstantial.   

Sweaters for Active Autumn and Winter Activities?

 

A Reader Question: 

I'm wondering what companies are known for making sweaters that are both warm and allow for freedom of movement. I love a good chunky sweater, but I'm on the hunt for men's sweaters that can be worn while engaging in activities like archery or shooting.

 

Question: To Which Clothing Brands and Stores are You Loyal?

One measurement for the health of companies is their brand loyalty, that ineffable combination of consumer habit, trust, even enthusiasm and self-identity.  Companies that value brand loyalty re-invest in it through improving quality, as well as trying to better understand their customers' needs and wants, and then providing products that better meet these needs.  Their new products cause excitement.

However brand loyalty has frayed.  This may be in part to companies losing contact with their customers, as when box stores and now online stores know more about buyers than the vendors themselves.  But also many companies have used brand loyalty against their customers.  Apple continues to raise prices on new iPhones, just as Gillette has done for decades on razor blades.  Some clothing companies that grew based on their (loudly touted) "Made in America" production have shifted to low-cost/offshore mega-factories, hoping no one noticed, or in other ways undermined their own production standards.  Globalization has created markets, less for fabulous items and more for vast quantities of good enough products ruthlessly marketed, easily bought, cost effective, and quickly shipped.   And companies with vast PR budgets have been able to simulate the social media enthusiasm that was once the reward of actual great products.   And, some past great brands have simply petered out, often the cumulative effect of dozens of bad decisions.

However, their is still the opportunity for great companies to flourish.  Given that, a question for the community:

To which clothing brands and stores are you loyal?

Some brands mentioned (with links):

• Mercer Shirts (OCBDs)
• Porthault (handkerchiefs, which sounds ridiculously indulgent, but it’s not)
• Tory's Jewelry
• Patsy Kane
• Quoddy (casual footwear)
• Pringle cardigans
• Cordings (Outerwear, Tweed and suits, Casual trousers, Polo shirts, Socks, headwear )
• Bates and James Lock (headwear)
• Oliver Brown (Casual trousers)
• Darn Tough socks
• Sunspel (Polo shirts - The quality and fit is much better than PRL or Gant!)
• Eric Javits (winter berets and buckets, summer sun hats)
• Kamakura Shirts. (OCBDs)
• Longchamp (le pliage bags for almost anywhere)
• Bills Khakis (chinos and polos)
• Uniqlo Cashmere (Heattech and AIRism undergarments)
• Wolford (hoisery)
• Tricker's (footwear)
• Vilebrequin Moorea Swim Trunks
• Vermont Originals Earflap Wool Caps
• Lawrence & Foster (caps)
• Olney (cotton hats - It's possible to buy Olney much cheaper (50% or more) from other stores.)
• Eileen Fisher (ballet-ballet-length dresses for anywhere)
• Pantherella (socks)
• John Smedley (Knitwear) 
• Breitling (watches)
• Alico hiking boots 
• Tilley hats
• Sole orthotic inserts
• Corgi (socks)
• E.Marinella (ties)
• Charles Tyrwhitt
• Great and British Knitwear
• Meindl hiking boots
• Rancourt
• Gill
• Taylor's of Old Bond Street (Shaving and grooming)
• Geo. Trumper (Shaving and grooming)
• DR Harris (Shaving and grooming)
• Fairway & Greene
• Peter Millar
• Tervis Tumblers (so long as they replace them when damaged)
• Mizuno  (Forged irons for golf)
• Turnbull & Asser (Shirts, ties and underwear)
• Barbour (Outerwear)
• Skida Hats
• Oak Street Bootmakers
• Title Nine (athletic apparel and bras - TMI)
• Smartwool Socks
• Subaru Cars
• Flint and Tinder
• Norlender sweaters
• Orvis (winter t-neck tops, cotton-gauze summer scarfs, Long Sleeve casual shirts, khakis)
• Alden shoes (Cordovans, In the future I want to purchase in person), (Specifically, The Shoemart in Norwalk, CT)
• Ferragamo (court shoes)
• Allen Edmunds (Spectators)
• Abeo Bio 
• Omega watches
• Crockett & Jones (footwear)
• Arcopedico 
• Pilot Varsity fountain pens
• Blundstone Boots
• Everlane 
• Boden (their children’s line must be woven with Teflon, my son couldn’t wear the stuff out and most is now on its third and fourth child.)
• Xtratuf  (outfitted my family on a lark after seeing what seemed like every dock and boat worker in Alaska wearing the boots. The first pair of boots my 13 yo actually wants to wear. )
• Stormy Kromer
• Longchamp Totes
• Sebago 
• Patagonia (outerwear)
• Dansko Clogs
• Boden Dresses
• Brooks Running
• Ben Silver
• Sperry's for deck shoes (the quality isn't there but I put mine through a lot and get new ones each year)
• Murray's for ACK Reds (even if the quality isn't what it once was, it’s still small enough for me to support them and better than the big brand imitators)
• Diamond Gusset jeans
• New Balance
• Bass
• Vineyard Vines
• Ralph Lauren
• Brooks Brothers (Made in America ties and suits, sweaters, coats, and Zac Posen designed dresses for events)
• Lacoste  (polo shirts)
• Carhartt 
• L.L. Bean (Bean boots, OCBD, occasionally khakis, polos, Gum Shoes, short sleeve casual shirts, tote bags, winter coats)
• Kmart Basic Editions Men's Button-Front Oxford Shirt
• J. McLaughlin
• JJill (black, flat-cut “wearever” tops and pull-on slacks, sleepwear)
• Eddie Bauer 
• Filson (home of L.L. Bean Signature alum Alex Carlton)
• J Press (for blazers and hangers, MTM dress shirts, blazers/suits, dress trousers, and sweaters)
• Lands' End (including for swim wear)

A Reader Find: Susan Fosse of Norway

Photographs of Norway sent by reader.  Used with permission.

Hi Muffy,

Long time reader and supporter and have purchased one half dozen sweaters from Harley’s / Bosie at your suggestion!

My wife and I are on vacation in Norway and discovered and bought the most beautiful and well crafted sweaters we’ve ever seen.

They are out of this world…

You should check them out: https://susanfosse.com/

Their customer service was a 10/10 too!

Have a great day.

Ask Muffy: “Should I get my Scottish Shetland sweaters stateside or directly from the Scottish vendors?”

Photos by Salt Water New England

I understand why some people prefer to go through the various U.S. based clothing stores.  They sweaters are easier to return if you order the wrong fit, and shipping would appear to be faster.  And it just feels familiar. 

However, there is no reason not to buy them directly from Scottish vendor any longer, simply because they cost less.  I compared a few items just now:

• Scottish vendor: Shetland Crew Neck is $135.00 (£108.00) for Men's, $127.50 (£102.00) for Women's plus shipping of £22 (plus £2 per extra item) for DHL Two Day Shipping to the USA. (Shaggy Brushing from £12.00.)

• U.S. Importer #1:  Shetland Crew Neck is $195.00 plus shipping of  $15.00 (UPS Ground) or $30.00 (2-Day). 

• U.S. Importer #2: Brushed Shetland Crew Neck is $245.00 with Free Shipping.

For whatever reason, U.S. clothing stores and companies have grown very comfortable with substantial mark-ups.  This either means you pay more for your sweater, or you get a lesser quality for the same price.   So unless there is a specific color that you can only get from a US vendor, buy directly from Scotland.  They are often from the same Scottish producer.

However, I do recommend getting comfortable using an overseas vendor's sizing chart.  And if you are not sure between two sizes, order larger the first time. 

Buy hard, dress easy,

Muffy  

 

For example (Bosie is owned by a Harley family member): 

• Men's Shetlands <https://bosieco.squarespace.com/shetland-shop?category=*+MEN>     

• Women's Shetlands <https://bosieco.squarespace.com/shetland-shop?category=*+WOMEN> 

• Women's Harley of Scotland Seamless Saddle Shoulder Shetland Sweater - Kelly Green <https://bosieco.squarespace.com/shetland-shop/womens-harley-of-scotland-seamless-saddle-shoulder-shetland-sweater-kelly-green>  

• Women's Harley of Scotland Seamless Saddle Shoulder Shetland Sweater - Ice Sea Blue <https://bosieco.squarespace.com/shetland-shop/womens-harley-of-scotland-seamless-saddle-shoulder-shetland-sweater-ice-sea-blue>

Women's Harley of Scotland Seamless Saddle Shoulder Shetland Sweater - Kelly Green (and Iced Sea Blue Behind It)

 

The Handknit Aran Sweater

Photo by Salt Water New England

The traditional Aran Sweater (Irish Fisherman's Sweater) is thick, warm, soft, versatile, and always good looking.

100% knitted by hand in Ireland (with knitting needles and 100% non-itchy merino wool), these classic garments have that unique drape with patterns that look almost chiseled in.  These are the most substantial of sweaters, very warm, very comfortable, and not as prone to the bagging found in machine made versions.

However, Aran sweaters that are authentically and locally hand-knit are increasingly rare as they are so labor intensive; each sweater takes between forty and fifty hours to knit.  They typically cost over $350 if bought from the source, and even so, increasingly use labor that has been imported for such tasks.

Classic(ish) Guernsey Sweaters that Aren't Navy

Photos by Salt Water New England

Navy Guernseys are iconic.  When building a classic wardrobe, they are an early purchase.  

After that, I might consider Le Tricotuer Guernsey pullovers in other nature-based hues.  Made of British Wool, knitted in Guernsey, and hand-finished in the homes of island residents, their wonderful Light Grey and Beige sweaters are equally harmonious with favorite places.

• <https://letricoteur.co/collections/womens>

• <https://letricoteur.co/collections/mens>

The Nordic Influence

Photo by Salt Water New England

 The Nordic influence should not be underappreciated, from Saabs and Volvos to classic birdseye sweaters of pure Norwegian wool.

• Devold Nordsjø Sweaters from Arthur Beale <https://arthurbeale.co.uk/products/devold-nordsjo-sweater>

Two More Great Sweaters from Bosie - Made in Scotland

Photos by Salt Water New England

Two more terrific sweaters from Bosie's new collection this season.  

For Women, the Funnel Neck Glenugie Nep in Barra Gold, a medium weight super soft pullover.  Easy to wear, it also comes in three other colors.

• Funnel Neck Glenugie Nep Women's Jumper <https://www.bosie.co/bosie-classic-plain-knitwear/funnel-neck-glenugie-nep-womens-jumper-4-colours>

We've been wearing the warm North Sea Shetlands for several seasons now and cannot say enough about them.  They are a generously sized, 4-ply Shetland, which can be brushed.  Shown here in wonderfully adult Graphite Green, these are offered in many other colors.

• North Sea Chunky Seamless Supersoft Shetland - Graphite Green <https://bosieco.squarespace.com/blue-mogganer/blue-mogganer-north-sea-chunky-seamless-supersoft-shetland-graphite-green>

Shown with:

• Small Tote in Chocolate  <https://lotuffleather.com/collections/totes/products/leather-small-tote>

• Galway Country Boot in Ivy <https://www.dubarry.com/us/Women/Footwear/Country-Boots/Galway-Country-Boot-Ivy>
  

Glenugie Nep (formerly known as Soft Donegal)

Shetland Sweaters

Warmth without Bulk - Harley of Scotland's Shetland Sweater from Bosie Knitwear of Scotland - Photos by Salt Water New England

There may be no single item that is as much a staple as a Shetland sweater.  It starts life ready for a nearly formal settings, and ends up perfectly suited for watching games by the sidelines.  Surprisingly comfortable, its warmth without bulk makes it perfect for cool summer evenings and for layering under other garments.

Harley of Scotland's Classic Shetland Sweater from Bosie Knitwear of Scotland

Our favorite source of authentic Shetlands is Bosie.  Bosie Knitwear's Harley of Scotland Shetlands are the softest I have even encountered.   They credit this to their yarn,  which comes from a "200 year old spinner," being milled in "some of the softest water in Scotland".

Made in Scotland, their Shetlands are seamfree and are extremely comfortable.

The most versatile is the classic Navy.

• Harley of Scotland Men's Shetland - Navy <https://www.bosie.co/shetland-shop>

Fair Isles

Photos by Salt Water New England

If The Country Store of Concord, my childhood favorite, was still around, I can imagine that they would sell these truly beautiful Fair Isles from Bosie.   Made in Scotland of 100% Donegal Merino wool, they manage to simultaneously feel extremely soft and hearty.  They are wonderful sweaters with enormous appeal.

• Islander Sweaters Shown - Sheridan, Swilly, Bantry <https://www.bosie.co/>

Washington Post: Traveling via my sweater collection

This winter, I'm traveling via my sweater collection.

I buy few souvenirs when I travel. But there are some parts of the world that require me to leave ample room in my suitcase: good sweater places. I’m drawn to cold climates and northerly latitudes — and wherever harsh weather exists, you’re likely to find tough wool sweaters knitted for the purpose of surviving it. 

- Karen Gardiner <https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/sweaters-travel-ireland-iceland-scotland/2020/12/17/e5bc6442-366b-11eb-8d38-6aea1adb3839_story.html>

 

 

Arthur Beale to Close Store, Remain Online

 

Several readers have emailed me to commiserate regarding the closing down of the Arthur Beale store.

• Wall Street Journal <https://www.wsj.com/articles/500-year-old-mad-sailor-shop-arthur-beale-sunk-by-lockdowns-11620930560>

Arthur Beale plans to continue their online store.  However, given how spectacular and unique the Arthur Beale offerings are, especially their sweaters, I would strongly suggest anyone thinking of buying one should do it as soon as possible.  Arthur Beale sweaters/ pullovers are designed for outdoor, cold weather use.  

• Arthur Beale on SWNE <https://www.saltwaternewengland.com/search?q=Arthur+Beale?>

Do You Shop for Tailored Items Online, and if So, How?

 

This little late rally on shopping at O'Connell's sets up another great set of questions for Muffy's readers:

Do you shop for clothing online or at stores, or do you shop for some things online like shirts or sweaters but other things only at stores, such as tailored items? If you buy tailored items online, do you provide information for things like cuffs or do you buy online but have final alterations done by a local tailor (or are you able to cuff trousers and sew buttons yourself)?